We arrived to Anton on Friday afternoon following an early boat to a 10 hour bus across half the length of Panama. The bus ride was quite an adventure as it broke down for an hour, had a few police searches and a lunch break along the side of the road. Finally, we made it and Erin met us without hitch. We dropped our bags off at her brother's apartment and went out to meet some of her friends. Gretchen and I were quite excited because most people of Anton do not speak much English, so we were made to practice our Spanish. Although we were pretty tired from our day of traveling, after freshening up, we were ready to embrace the scene.
Carnaval festivities began Friday night, so we were able to witness the coronation of the queen and the procession of the royal court around the town. It was really interesting to see how such a small town produces such a vibrant carnaval celebration. Also, all of Erin's friends and family were excited to show us their traditions. We participated in the parade and did the traditional "morga" dance around town before continuing the celebration in the street until the early morning.
The festivities continued in the morning as we entered the Parque Central for the "culecos" (fire hoses and water fights). It was great because it was so hot out and we were able to run around the park getting soaked by the hoses and dancing to Latin music. We bought water guns on the street and provoked fights with the children in town which was also funny because they had run around the night before pointing at us and screaming out "gringas"!
We participated in the "culecos" for the next few days both in Anton and Penenome, another village 30 minutes away...all in all a great time. In the evenings, the queen would be paraded around town in different gowns and also traditional Panamanian dress dependent upon which day of carnaval it was. It was quite the amazing experience to be in such a traditional environment with people who were eager to share their culture with us.
On Monday afternoon, Erin, Gretchen and I headed to Panama City as we were all going to depart for Costa Rica together.
Friday, February 27, 2009
Thursday, February 26, 2009
Days 93-96 - Bocas del Toro, Panama
Early Monday morning, Gretchen and I headed to the border with Panama. The border crossing was not as intense as the others I´ve done so far, but it was a bit odd. We were to leave Costa Rica, walk across a rickety bridge and enter Panama. Before we could officially enter Panama, we had to prove that we were indeed leaving the country. We hadn´t made official plans at that time, so we had to buy fake bus tickets back to San Jose. It was really a random scenario that happens quite frequently from what we understand.
Once we were across to Panama, we hopped into a van which took us to the boat to Isla Colon, the main island of Bocas del Toro. The boat was full of Argentinian travelers which was nice for us because they were all in such good spirits. We arrived to Bocas around noon and searched high and low for a hotel. We ended up at Casa Max which was pretty simple, but right in the heart of the action.
Bocas was a really interesting place as it is the most touristy place in all of Panama. In order to get between the islands and to various beaches, there were water taxis of plenty for a few dollars. There were alot of opportunities for tours and such, but we found that most people were not very accommodating. No one was able to give us a straight answer on how long we were able to stay at a hotel, or if our tour was on for the next day. We ended up having to move our hotel room twice in one hotel and then to another, better hotel (Bocas Inn) later on in the week.It was a beautiful place with very rustic scenery, but the overall vibe was much more of a backpacker scene than the typical Panamanian culture.
We were able to hire a water taxi to take us to Red Frog Beach for one day which was in the middle of a nature reserve and gorgeous. We also hung out at Aqua Lodge which was pretty much Pinocchio´s playland with swings into the water and docks to dive off of...a very young scene. I have the feeling that the reason we came away feeling the way that we did was because the town was so busy preparing for Carnaval that all of the reservations were getting extremely full.
On Thursday night, we were in touch with Erin about plans for the morning and getting excited to spend Carnaval in the small town where she´d spent a year after high school. From what we understood, it would be a great time although a great distance to get there.
Once we were across to Panama, we hopped into a van which took us to the boat to Isla Colon, the main island of Bocas del Toro. The boat was full of Argentinian travelers which was nice for us because they were all in such good spirits. We arrived to Bocas around noon and searched high and low for a hotel. We ended up at Casa Max which was pretty simple, but right in the heart of the action.
Bocas was a really interesting place as it is the most touristy place in all of Panama. In order to get between the islands and to various beaches, there were water taxis of plenty for a few dollars. There were alot of opportunities for tours and such, but we found that most people were not very accommodating. No one was able to give us a straight answer on how long we were able to stay at a hotel, or if our tour was on for the next day. We ended up having to move our hotel room twice in one hotel and then to another, better hotel (Bocas Inn) later on in the week.It was a beautiful place with very rustic scenery, but the overall vibe was much more of a backpacker scene than the typical Panamanian culture.
We were able to hire a water taxi to take us to Red Frog Beach for one day which was in the middle of a nature reserve and gorgeous. We also hung out at Aqua Lodge which was pretty much Pinocchio´s playland with swings into the water and docks to dive off of...a very young scene. I have the feeling that the reason we came away feeling the way that we did was because the town was so busy preparing for Carnaval that all of the reservations were getting extremely full.
On Thursday night, we were in touch with Erin about plans for the morning and getting excited to spend Carnaval in the small town where she´d spent a year after high school. From what we understood, it would be a great time although a great distance to get there.
Tuesday, February 17, 2009
Days 84-92 - Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica
Puerto Viejo is a great town on the South Caribbean coast of Costa Rica. I arrived on Saturday early evening to Hotel Pura Vida (the Costa Rican motto meaning "pure life"). It was a great, spacious place owned by a Chilean-German couple a few blocks from the main street in town. The town itself has an interesting vibe as it is still very much Costa Rica, but also heavily influenced by Caribbean cultures like Jamaica. The people speak a patois more heavy in Spanish than English, but most are able to speak both fluently. The bars and restaurants are all full of reggae music, but also feature salsa at times.
The first few days I was in Puerto Viejo, I met a brother and sister from Chicago and two Canadian guys...it was nice to have an instant group of people to hang out with. Also, the locals were very nice and were eager to join us. It rained quite a bit throughout the week, but there were several days of beautiful weather where we were able to explore the beaches beyond the main beach in town.
One day, I took the bus to Cahuita by myself to explore the National Park. I was able to spot some howler monkeys in the trees and blue monarch butterflies as I walked through. The town itself was quite quiet, so I was pleased that I had decided to stay in Puerto Viejo the entire time.
Another day, the group of us rented a golf cart from town and went to the beach at Punta Uva where one of our friends was staying and then further on to Manzanillo...both beautiful, more secluded beaches with only a handful of places around.
The nightlife in town was great as well. I felt very safe going out with my group and we enjoyed getting to know the people and places around. It was cool to see the fusion of cultures in full force especially coming from the North and West of Costa Rica which are far more tourist oriented.
On Friday, Gretchen and her boyfriend arrived. It was great to add them to our group. Her boyfriend is from the West of Costa Rica, and he had a few friends who had moved to town so we had additional people looking out for us.
The first few days I was in Puerto Viejo, I met a brother and sister from Chicago and two Canadian guys...it was nice to have an instant group of people to hang out with. Also, the locals were very nice and were eager to join us. It rained quite a bit throughout the week, but there were several days of beautiful weather where we were able to explore the beaches beyond the main beach in town.
One day, I took the bus to Cahuita by myself to explore the National Park. I was able to spot some howler monkeys in the trees and blue monarch butterflies as I walked through. The town itself was quite quiet, so I was pleased that I had decided to stay in Puerto Viejo the entire time.
Another day, the group of us rented a golf cart from town and went to the beach at Punta Uva where one of our friends was staying and then further on to Manzanillo...both beautiful, more secluded beaches with only a handful of places around.
The nightlife in town was great as well. I felt very safe going out with my group and we enjoyed getting to know the people and places around. It was cool to see the fusion of cultures in full force especially coming from the North and West of Costa Rica which are far more tourist oriented.
On Friday, Gretchen and her boyfriend arrived. It was great to add them to our group. Her boyfriend is from the West of Costa Rica, and he had a few friends who had moved to town so we had additional people looking out for us.
Friday, February 6, 2009
Days 80-83 - Monteverde & Arenal, Costa Rica
What a surprise to wake up and have it be pouring rain and cold! I thought I was escaping the winter of the NorthEast. Turns out there was a cold front passing through all of Costa Rica and being that Monteverde is in the mountains and the middle of the rainforest, we definitely felt the difference in temperature. Winds were pretty strong, but I still made it out in time for my 10:30 tour of the suspension bridges. We were taken in vans to Selvatura Park outside of town where there are 8 bridges built into the canopy from which you can see the flora and fauna of the rainforest. It was quite beautiful and I was able to capture some great scenery although I came back soaking wet. Luckily, there were hot showers at Sleepers which I could take advantage of. The rest of the day was pretty mellow...I met some other travelers from Czech Republic, the US and Canada and chatted with them about where they have been to compare notes.
The following day, the conditions became worse...the wind was stronger and the rain heavier. I'd booked the "Extremo" canopy tour and was very excited to undertake the 14 ziplines (the longest of which was 750 m), 1 several hundred foot rappel and a tarzan swing. This was by far the BEST canopy tour I've been on to date and we had a great group too. Everyone was young and adventurous. We took some pictures and someone even captured a video of me during my tarzan swing experience...pretty much it was a free fall drop for several hundred feet followed by a pendulum swing into the rainforest...it was absolutely exhilarating! Once we'd finished up the program, it was late in the afternoon and everyone was soaked. Again, drained from the weather, I took it easy and relaxed.
Early Thursday morning, one of the girls from the hostel, Margot, was headed to Arenal with me and we departed for our Jeep-Boat-Jeep excursion. We took a car from Monteverde to Lake Arenal, a boat to the other side of the lake, and then another car to our next destination. We'd both decided to stay at the Arenal Backpacker's Resort; a "five star hostel". It was pretty nice for a hostel, but definitely not 5 stars in my book. We ran into another girl I'd met in Ometepe, Chris, and she joined up with us. We were excited to book the tour of the natural hot springs. In Arenal, there are several destinations where resorts have taken the natural hot springs from the Arenal Volcano and turned them into spas. We decided to do a tour which included a 2 hour hike of the volcano followed by a visit to the nicest hot springs in town, Tabacon. It was a bit pricey, but we couldn't resist as many people said that the cost was well worth it. There were three other Canadian girls on our tour as well which was a nice group for the afternoon/evening.
The hike was a bit wet as it was still raining in Arenal, but once we got to Tabacon, we were all in heaven! (Mom, you would've loved this place!) It was as if you were at the many pools in a 5-star (legitimate 5-star) resort, but the pools were warmer than jacuzzis and natural flowing water from the volcano. Some pools even had waterfalls and rapids in them and sandy bottoms. It was fantastic. The surroundings were also great because the tropical plants and trees of the rainforest remained in tact there. We had a few hours to hang out before going to dinner at the resort's restaurant. It was a great excursion.
Friday morning, I hoped it would clear up, but it was still raining. I took the day to straighten out my plans for the next leg of my journey...Puerto Viejo, on the Caribbean Coast of Costa Rica. I'll be there for about a week and also meet up with Gretchen before continuing on to Panama.
The following day, the conditions became worse...the wind was stronger and the rain heavier. I'd booked the "Extremo" canopy tour and was very excited to undertake the 14 ziplines (the longest of which was 750 m), 1 several hundred foot rappel and a tarzan swing. This was by far the BEST canopy tour I've been on to date and we had a great group too. Everyone was young and adventurous. We took some pictures and someone even captured a video of me during my tarzan swing experience...pretty much it was a free fall drop for several hundred feet followed by a pendulum swing into the rainforest...it was absolutely exhilarating! Once we'd finished up the program, it was late in the afternoon and everyone was soaked. Again, drained from the weather, I took it easy and relaxed.
Early Thursday morning, one of the girls from the hostel, Margot, was headed to Arenal with me and we departed for our Jeep-Boat-Jeep excursion. We took a car from Monteverde to Lake Arenal, a boat to the other side of the lake, and then another car to our next destination. We'd both decided to stay at the Arenal Backpacker's Resort; a "five star hostel". It was pretty nice for a hostel, but definitely not 5 stars in my book. We ran into another girl I'd met in Ometepe, Chris, and she joined up with us. We were excited to book the tour of the natural hot springs. In Arenal, there are several destinations where resorts have taken the natural hot springs from the Arenal Volcano and turned them into spas. We decided to do a tour which included a 2 hour hike of the volcano followed by a visit to the nicest hot springs in town, Tabacon. It was a bit pricey, but we couldn't resist as many people said that the cost was well worth it. There were three other Canadian girls on our tour as well which was a nice group for the afternoon/evening.
The hike was a bit wet as it was still raining in Arenal, but once we got to Tabacon, we were all in heaven! (Mom, you would've loved this place!) It was as if you were at the many pools in a 5-star (legitimate 5-star) resort, but the pools were warmer than jacuzzis and natural flowing water from the volcano. Some pools even had waterfalls and rapids in them and sandy bottoms. It was fantastic. The surroundings were also great because the tropical plants and trees of the rainforest remained in tact there. We had a few hours to hang out before going to dinner at the resort's restaurant. It was a great excursion.
Friday morning, I hoped it would clear up, but it was still raining. I took the day to straighten out my plans for the next leg of my journey...Puerto Viejo, on the Caribbean Coast of Costa Rica. I'll be there for about a week and also meet up with Gretchen before continuing on to Panama.
Tuesday, February 3, 2009
Days 72-79 - San Juan del Sur & Isla de Ometepe, Nicaragua
It was great to be back in San Juan in a place where I was familiar and comfortable, especially the day after Nic left to the Bahamas. I was able to reconnect with the friends I have there and spend the early part of the week getting the next legs of my travels organized. I also had the opportunity to go out on my friend, Justin's boat "Gypsy" while I was in town. He's just begun to do private charters along the coastline which is great!
On Friday morning, I headed to Isla de Ometepe for a few days. Originally, some friends from San Juan were going to join me, but due to work obligations coming up I ended up traveling solo. Isla de Ometepe is an island in Lago de Nicaragua comprised of two volcanoes: Concepcion (active) and Maderas (inactive). There are great crater lakes, waterfalls and hikes to experience. My hostel, Hacienda Merida, was great because they not only worked out tours for us, but they also rented kayaks, bikes and horses . They also had a beautiful fishing pier that you can dive off of. Dining was interesting as well as each night at dinner, every guest sat around together at the same time where we were able to discuss the day's adventures.
I was going to do the hike up volcan Maderas, but when I understood that it was 8 hours return and I'd forgotten socks, I decided against it and rented a bike. I undertook the 38km trek around the base of the volcano which was gorgeous. It was a very difficult ride (known to take 5 hours) with lots of ups and downs. About 30km into the ride, I was getting pretty tired and sped up a great deal down one of the hills. Next thing I knew, I'd fallen off the bike on the side of the road. There were no oncoming vehicles, but I was still pretty cut up. Luckily, a few meters down the road I spotted a truck and a bunch of people waiting. They turned out to be Jehovah's Witnesses who offered to drive me back to my hostel. It was quite funny because in the mean while, a few of them presented me with brochures and asked in Spanish if I was interested in learning more about the Bible. I politely answered that I respect what they are doing, but am not religious in that way. They were ok with that response and proceeded to take me back to Hacienda Merida. The next day I was able to kayak a bit before getting my cab back to the port for my return ferry.
While on the ferry, I overheard a guy of similar age to me who was headed to San Juan so I asked if he wanted to share a cab. He had rented a car to travel around Nicaragua, so I was able to get a ride with him back to town. We arrived back around 3 on Sunday afternoon and as soon as I walked out of the car, I saw a good friend of mine on the street with whom I'd planned to meet up with later on. We watched the Super Bowl at a bar in town and another friend of ours played live music in the longer breaks.
Early Monday morning, I headed to Rivas (about 30 minutes from San Juan) to catch my bus back across the Costa Rican border. The bus ride was smooth aside from the 2.5 hour layover at the border. I got off in Liberia and hired a cab to take me to Monteverde (cloud forests). It was a lengthy and expensive ride, but I was happy to be taken directly there especially following the fiasco at the border that afternoon. The sunset over one of the beautiful crater lakes and I soon arrived at Sleepers Sleep Cheaper...I know, cheesy name, but got the best reviews I found on trip advisor for backpackers. I was greeted by the owner who had expected me and immediately made me feel at home again.
On Friday morning, I headed to Isla de Ometepe for a few days. Originally, some friends from San Juan were going to join me, but due to work obligations coming up I ended up traveling solo. Isla de Ometepe is an island in Lago de Nicaragua comprised of two volcanoes: Concepcion (active) and Maderas (inactive). There are great crater lakes, waterfalls and hikes to experience. My hostel, Hacienda Merida, was great because they not only worked out tours for us, but they also rented kayaks, bikes and horses . They also had a beautiful fishing pier that you can dive off of. Dining was interesting as well as each night at dinner, every guest sat around together at the same time where we were able to discuss the day's adventures.
I was going to do the hike up volcan Maderas, but when I understood that it was 8 hours return and I'd forgotten socks, I decided against it and rented a bike. I undertook the 38km trek around the base of the volcano which was gorgeous. It was a very difficult ride (known to take 5 hours) with lots of ups and downs. About 30km into the ride, I was getting pretty tired and sped up a great deal down one of the hills. Next thing I knew, I'd fallen off the bike on the side of the road. There were no oncoming vehicles, but I was still pretty cut up. Luckily, a few meters down the road I spotted a truck and a bunch of people waiting. They turned out to be Jehovah's Witnesses who offered to drive me back to my hostel. It was quite funny because in the mean while, a few of them presented me with brochures and asked in Spanish if I was interested in learning more about the Bible. I politely answered that I respect what they are doing, but am not religious in that way. They were ok with that response and proceeded to take me back to Hacienda Merida. The next day I was able to kayak a bit before getting my cab back to the port for my return ferry.
While on the ferry, I overheard a guy of similar age to me who was headed to San Juan so I asked if he wanted to share a cab. He had rented a car to travel around Nicaragua, so I was able to get a ride with him back to town. We arrived back around 3 on Sunday afternoon and as soon as I walked out of the car, I saw a good friend of mine on the street with whom I'd planned to meet up with later on. We watched the Super Bowl at a bar in town and another friend of ours played live music in the longer breaks.
Early Monday morning, I headed to Rivas (about 30 minutes from San Juan) to catch my bus back across the Costa Rican border. The bus ride was smooth aside from the 2.5 hour layover at the border. I got off in Liberia and hired a cab to take me to Monteverde (cloud forests). It was a lengthy and expensive ride, but I was happy to be taken directly there especially following the fiasco at the border that afternoon. The sunset over one of the beautiful crater lakes and I soon arrived at Sleepers Sleep Cheaper...I know, cheesy name, but got the best reviews I found on trip advisor for backpackers. I was greeted by the owner who had expected me and immediately made me feel at home again.
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