Saturday, November 29, 2008

Days 8-13 - Flor de Pochote

A week on the farm...I began my mornings at 8am with breakfast of fresh fruit and coffee prepared by the resident chef. Definitely nothing to complain about. Everything served here was either grown on the premises organically, or within the community. Following, around 9 I had Spanish lessons for a few hours with a professor from the Spanish school in Granada where I had been last week. It turned out that she was the sister of my teacher from last week. She was great and I definitely improved my oral abilities over the past week; however, I am still a long way from fluency. During our lessons, the chef would bring us a snack of pastry and juice. Around noon, we had lunch together. Each day at one, we would meet up with the grounds keeper of the farm and participate in some work for a few hours...this is where it gets interesting.

Monday, I learned how to scrub down the goose bath and corral. Also, I learned how to make organic chicken feed before distributing it. It is interesting because as the farm is organic, there are no real limitations put on the animals. The chickens, cows, sheep and horses are free to roam around as they please. Kind of funny when you are eating breakfast and all of a sudden, the cow comes to eat with you.

Tuesday, I learned how to sharpen a machete and determine if a cactus was infected by a plague. If yes, I had to chop off the infected area or slice it with the machete...I did not like this task at all and I think the grounds keeper began thinking that I was a princess. Oh well.

Wednesday, we walked around the community and spoke with different people about what they grow and their thoughts on the current economic conditions in Nicaragua. It was really interesting not only to see how they live, but also to know that I can comprehend discussions such as these at this stage in the game. Obviously, my responses and follow up questions were in broken Spanish, but these folks were appreciative of my efforts. We also visited a coffee growers cooperative which was pretty cool. It has been around for 30 years and these guys were hard core sandinista. They had murals of Che on their walls and spoke about how much they do not like the banks having ownership of their property. They were very hospitable and answered all of my questions about the production process and the history of their group, but it was an extremely different lifestyle than what I am used to.

Thursday, I learned how to sharpen an ax and to saw down trees with an electric saw. I also tried - key word - tried to chop firewood, but it was much more difficult than I´d thought.

Unfortunately, Friday I contracted a fever and had to cancel my activity, but the family and their staff were very hospitable and took great care of me.

Saturday morning I woke up feeling much better and ready to head back to Granada for the day.
The taxi picked me up at 11am and brought me back to the school. I am finally able to use the internet and charge my phone with more credits as I was pretty much in isolation over the past week. It was a great experience living on the farm, but I am very excited to be headed to the beach tomorrow morning!

Day 6 & 7 - Granada, Masaya and Flor de Pochote

It was the weekend and time to make an excursion outside of Granada...I met up with some friends early in the morning and we headed to the artisan market in Masaya which is only about 20 minutes away by bus. This market in known for wooden furniture, hammocks and pottery. We took a similar bus to the one I´d taken to Catarina, but this time the experience was much more pleasant, probably because it was early in the morning on a Saturday. We perused the market, but only one of us bought a lot. I would have loved to pick up a hammock, but there was no way I was carrying it through my entire trip. After a few hours in Masaya, we headed back to Granada for lunch. The rest of the day I spent hanging out with my host family as I would be leaving in the morning for Masatepe.

On Sunday morning, I brought my things to the school where a taxi would take me to my next destination, Flor de Pochote right outside of Masatepe. The cab driver was very nice and he thought I would like the music in his car which was 1970s disco and pop remixed in English...pretty funny. After the 30 minute ride, we arrived to Flor de Pochote. The main house was quite nice with a gorgeous view of Laguna de Apoyo and a volcano in the distance. The closest city was Masaya which was also visible from the house. I was taken up a steep hill to my cabaña by one of the women who works in the house. My cabaña was much better than I had expected. It was pretty much equivalent to a bunk I lived in at camp, but all to myself. Also, the view was gorgeous and I had a hammock and rocking chairs on my porch so that I could enjoy the scenery. There were no planned activities for the afternoon, so I hung out and got adjusted to my new surroundings. I had dinner with the family who owns the farm and learned that he was from Denmark and she from Nicaragua. They have run the place for 14 years and it is a successful destination for ecotourism. Also, I learned that they did not have electricity for about a week and that it is common outside the cities to go for days without electricity. I was escorted back to my cabaña as it was pitch black and the electricity did not return by morning.

Saturday, November 22, 2008

Day 5 - Granada

Today has been quite an interesting day. Last day of class this week meant an exam which I was not expecting. I performed well and am happy that my Spanish is coming along as it is. In the afternoon, I was headed to Catalina with my professor, Carla to see the best view of the city. We went to the bus station which was by NO MEANS what I had pictured...picture a parking lot behind a wire fence where about 50 people are hanging out and listening to latin techno. The buses are converted school buses from the 1990's that have been painted festivly.

We board the bus without paying and while we wait, there is a parade of vendors selling everything under the sun. You name it...from gum and candy to socks and earrings. They were also selling fresh fruit juices in plastic bags with straws and freshly baked donuts. So random. Anyway, the funniest was when the bus was full to capacity and we were not able to leave until the entire isle was a lineup of people as well. Not sure if this was due to our rush hour departure, but it was jammed. As we departed the terminal, the bus continued to stop every 100 feet or so to both let people off and allow more people on! This was definitely not the express.

We finally arrived at Catalina and it was definitely a sight to be seen! There was a gorgeous view of a lagoon with the city of Granada in the back and the volcano Mumbacho to the right. After a little while of walking around and taking random photos of roosters wandering the streets, we headed back to the main road to catch the bus back to Granada. Turns out, we missed the last bus and got in a cab. (Note: the cabs here are similar to the sherut in Israel where they are shared with different destinations)

The cab took us to the neighboring city of Masaya where we were able to catch a "microbus" back to Granada which was similar to the cramped quarters of the regular "chicken bus" but in a minivan. Of course, we were picked up on the side of the street and were the last ones onboard. The man who collected money stood in front of the sliding door as we squeezed on. The driver continued on pretty quickly. The only problem was that everytime the door opened, my skirt flew up! After a few stops, I was given a seat until we arrived back in Granada.

Upon arrival, I went back to my host family for dinner before going out with my new friends. I met up with them a block away from the house and we headed to Calle de Calzada where restaurants and bars spill into the street, especially at night. We had a drink at a cafe called Flor de Lise where the manager literally found a table in the basement and set it up for us on the sidewalk because there were no more seats. After a bit of time here, we headed to Cafe Nuit where there was live music and a beautiful garden. All in all, a great day/night.

Friday, November 21, 2008

Day 4 - Granada

Nothing much new to report today. Had another great lesson with Carla and in the afternoon returned to school for a cooking lesson. Two of the Dutch girls I´ve met joined me for the lesson and we made Los Buñuelos, a typical Nicaraguan dish. Los Buñuelos are dumplings filled with yucca and cheese both grated very finely and dipped in a mixture of honey, cinnamon and cloves. The dumplings are fried in oil and cooked on both sides like latkes. They were very delicious!

Thursday, November 20, 2008

Day 3 - Granada

It is now Wednesday and my week here is nearly half over. On my way to school this morning, I found something a bit peculiar...on the corner of my street was a random horse, just standing there! I asked if this was a common sight and I guess there is nothing wrong with a stray horse hanging out on a street corner! So, I had my usual few hours of class in the morning, and lunch at the family´s.

After lunch, I walked over to Parque Central this time determined to find the ¨Seeing Hands¨ location in back of EuroCafe. Without too much trouble, I found the receptionist and her four masseurs! It was kind of odd that this massage parlour was located in the back of a coffee shop...for those of you familiar with Second Cup in Montreal on Parc, think of the side of the shop in the back filled with blind men and massage chairs. I know, a bit awkward, but great as you read on. This situation was not creepy in the least as students with laptops were in all other corners of this room. I asked how long was the wait for a 20 minute chair massage and found that I had to wait a bit.

Instead of waiting, I ventured down Calle Calzada where there are tons of restaurants, bars and hostels. It was interesting to see also here that the front of each venue was brightly colored and with no specific or grandiose design. Upon looking inside, there were magnificent gardens and people hanging out on rocking chairs - apparently, rocking chairs are big here.

After about 20 minutes, I returned to ¨Seeing Hands¨for my 20 minute massage. It was all very professional and a nice break in the day. Afterward, I picked up a Coca Light and headed back to school for my afternoon activity. Note to all...in Granada, a 20 minute massage = 3 Coca Light = $3.50 US!

Once I returned to school, Carla and I set off to walk the length of the city. We headed through Parque Central and past where I had ventured before to Doña Elba - a cigar rolling facility. We walked in and there were four workers sitting at grade school - sized desks with plenty of tobacco leaves around them. It was interesting to see how this process worked. I even got to roll a few cigars myself!

Following Doña Elba, we continued walking away from the city´s center to La Polvora which is a former prison sitting at the outskirts. This prison has four towers which allow one to see the length of the city. It was interesting to walk around and see the structure. It is great because Carla acts as my personal Spanish professor and tourguide. She was able to answer all of my questions. Once we were done at La Polvora, I walked back toward the house and stopped at Iglesia Xalteva which has existed since the 18th century. Across the street is a park with stone lanterns unchanged from this same period. I continued walking and found myself back at the house soon after.

I was pleased that I was able to better communicate at dinner, especially because la abuela served tostones and torta de pollo which is reminiscent of potato latkes + schnitzel which was greatly appreciated.

Wednesday, November 19, 2008

Day 2 - Granada

This morning, I woke feeling a bit more comfortable. The young girl, Marla, came in to wake me and head to breakfast together. I was able to hold a bit more of a conversation at the table, but still a struggle to communicate.

I headed to school around 8 for my lessons. At lunch break, I decided to wander around the city a bit. I had read about a massage parlour run by the blind which sounded interesting, but it was far too hot to be wandering around at that hour. I headed home for lunch with the family. Again, I was able to utilize the siesta time and took a nice nap after eating.

Around 3, I went back to school to meet Carla for our tour of the Museo de Granada. This was quite a place documenting the history of the city from both cultural and religious standpoints. There were lots of sculptures inspired by the bible as well as some gorgeous paintings of Granada´s surroundings. We spent about an hour here before heading back to the school.

My plan was to continue on to find the blind masseurs; however, when I arrived back to the school, some of my peers were hanging out, so I decided to stay and chat. Two of the girls are from Holland and are here for 2 months to study Spanish and volunteer in the community. One of these girls, Anna, had stayed with my current host family and shared my sentiments being pleased with their hospitality and dynamic. The other Dutch girl, Mascha, mentioned that upon finishing her time in Granada, she was headed to San Juan del Sur...this would overlap with my time there, so it was nice to meet someone with a similar itinerary. The other American girls had already been in the city for 2 months and shared some fun weekend excursions they had been on - for example, Isla de Ometepe where they climbed a volcano and met loads of travelers from Canada and Australia. This is close by to San Juan del Sur, so I hope to make this trip when I am there.

After chatting for a bit, I headed home to practice my Spanish a bit more at dinner with my host family. I was able to fit in a brief chat with Mom which was nice, until Marla came in to get me for dinner. I was pleased that I could converse a bit with the two youngest. After dinner, the abuela - grandmother - proposed that I watch TV so that my vocabulary would become greater. I took her advice and sat with Marla watching Bridezillas, of all programs.

Tuesday, November 18, 2008

Day 1 - Granada

The first day in Granada has been extremely eye-opening. This city has been previously colonized by both the Spanish and British as is reflective in its architecture. Also, the backdrop is a large volcano and Lago de Nicaragua. Apparently, this lake takes 15 hours to cross by boat!

I was awoken by the mother of my host family around 7am so that I would have time to get ready before I went to school. She prepared Corn Flakes with fresh papaya and oranges for my desayuno. I was hesitant to eat the fruit, but it was still in its skin, so I figured I would take a taste and see how I fared. Around 8am, I was brought to the Spanish school and given a key by the ¨head master¨. She then introduced me to my instructor, Carla. She is very sweet and couldn´t be any older than I am.

We began with an exam to evaluate my skills which are by no means developed. Having completed what I was able, we began with some simple vocabulary and verb structure. This week will be great for me to cultivate my language skills and also to get comfortable living with a family. I had lessons until 10am at which time we have a half hour break. I was given a Nicaraguan cell phone for the month and was thrilled as mine has not been properly picking up signal. This school is great because my lessons are one-on-one so that I set the pace of each subject dependent upon my understanding level. There are a few other girls in the school this week, but they have lessons together and volunteer in a school in the afternoon. Around 1030, we recommence and continue until noon.

Each day, I have a break in medio dia - noon- until 3pm. I headed home for lunch and was greeted by the entire family who would eat intermittantly dependent upon when they would head back to work. In the house, there are 8 members including the mother and head of the household, her three daughters and one son as well as three grand children. I ate with one of her daughters and grand daughters who are completely baffled by the fact that I barely understand what they are saying and cannot properly respond. It is a crazy feeling not to be able to communicate, but Ill get there. We had chicken soup and rice, beans and boiled plantains. The fresh pàpaya juice was fantastic as well. Following our meal, I took an hour siesta and completed my homework for school.

Around 3p, I headed back to school for a tour of the city. We walked down to the lake which I understood was polluted in most parts, but in the center, there is still a thriving fish trade by the Isla de Ometepe. Carla explained the history of the lake and volcano as well as the traditions of the city of Granada. We continued walking toward the central park and wandered through the mercato. It reminded me a bit of Italy where vendors were saying whatever they could to get your attention. They sold shoes, clothing and food. Apparently, in Masaya a bit closer to Managua, there is a great artisan market where it is best to make purchases. There is not much poverty in Granada as the city has become extremely desirable to ex-pats rendering it unaffordable to most lower economic families. There is also a house which has been established to aid working women. They hold courses in English, sewing, computers, etc at no cost. I am happy that we were able to tour a bit so that I could see what else the city has to offer aside from what I have noticed in my walk to and from school.

Once our walk was complete, I headed back to the house for cena. Not understandng how, I was completely wiped out after all of this activity. I ate quickly with the family before excusing myself to go to bed.

Monday, November 17, 2008

Arrival and first night in Granada

I have arrived safely to Nicaragua and without any major hiccups along the way.

Left NYC around 11a and arrived to Miami a few minutes early allowing for some quick calls before meeting up with Stacey. Shortly after exiting security, she met me for lunch and we had a great catchup as we hadn´t seen each other in about a year. Around 5, I went back through and made it to the gate just before boarding began.

My flight to Managua also landed early, and I had ample time to go through Immigration and Customs before locating my bag - which I checked reluctantly. Luckily, as soon as I picked up my bag from the carousel, I noticed a gentleman holding a sign with my name on it...he was the taxi driver who would take me to my first destination, Granada.

Communication was difficult as he did not speak English and my Spanish is horrendous at this point. My broken Italian/French did not prove helpful in the least either...oh well...at least I was able to comprehend a bit and gather that the ride would be about an hour. The only issue which ensued was that my cell phone which was supposed to receive signal was out of service - sorry Mom, if you were worried! The entire ride, I attempted to reset but no luck.

Anyhow, I arrived to Granada and it is a quaint, colonial city, at least from what I can tell in the dark. The taxi driver pulled up to the Spanish school where the ¨head master¨came out and guided us to my host family´s abode. I walked in and was happy with my accommodations. There really were no expectations, just as long as it was clean, safe and quiet. My room consists of a mosquito netted bed, an armoir and a bureau. To one side is the bathroom and living room to the other. The entire house is layed out in a row, with my room at the relative front.

I was exhausted by this point, so once I learned that the ¨head master¨would come by in the morning to pick me up for school, I went to sleep.

Saturday, November 15, 2008

Sunday, November 9, 2008

A Week Today

Beginning to get everything organized and prepared as I leave NYC in just one short week! It is amazing how much I am able to squeeze into this little pack. I am thumbing through the travel guides thrilled to have these descriptions come to life so soon. Although it will be tough to leave the hustle bustle, ever changing day-to-day of New York, I cannot wait to embark on this life changing journey.