We arrived to Anton on Friday afternoon following an early boat to a 10 hour bus across half the length of Panama. The bus ride was quite an adventure as it broke down for an hour, had a few police searches and a lunch break along the side of the road. Finally, we made it and Erin met us without hitch. We dropped our bags off at her brother's apartment and went out to meet some of her friends. Gretchen and I were quite excited because most people of Anton do not speak much English, so we were made to practice our Spanish. Although we were pretty tired from our day of traveling, after freshening up, we were ready to embrace the scene.
Carnaval festivities began Friday night, so we were able to witness the coronation of the queen and the procession of the royal court around the town. It was really interesting to see how such a small town produces such a vibrant carnaval celebration. Also, all of Erin's friends and family were excited to show us their traditions. We participated in the parade and did the traditional "morga" dance around town before continuing the celebration in the street until the early morning.
The festivities continued in the morning as we entered the Parque Central for the "culecos" (fire hoses and water fights). It was great because it was so hot out and we were able to run around the park getting soaked by the hoses and dancing to Latin music. We bought water guns on the street and provoked fights with the children in town which was also funny because they had run around the night before pointing at us and screaming out "gringas"!
We participated in the "culecos" for the next few days both in Anton and Penenome, another village 30 minutes away...all in all a great time. In the evenings, the queen would be paraded around town in different gowns and also traditional Panamanian dress dependent upon which day of carnaval it was. It was quite the amazing experience to be in such a traditional environment with people who were eager to share their culture with us.
On Monday afternoon, Erin, Gretchen and I headed to Panama City as we were all going to depart for Costa Rica together.
Friday, February 27, 2009
Thursday, February 26, 2009
Days 93-96 - Bocas del Toro, Panama
Early Monday morning, Gretchen and I headed to the border with Panama. The border crossing was not as intense as the others I´ve done so far, but it was a bit odd. We were to leave Costa Rica, walk across a rickety bridge and enter Panama. Before we could officially enter Panama, we had to prove that we were indeed leaving the country. We hadn´t made official plans at that time, so we had to buy fake bus tickets back to San Jose. It was really a random scenario that happens quite frequently from what we understand.
Once we were across to Panama, we hopped into a van which took us to the boat to Isla Colon, the main island of Bocas del Toro. The boat was full of Argentinian travelers which was nice for us because they were all in such good spirits. We arrived to Bocas around noon and searched high and low for a hotel. We ended up at Casa Max which was pretty simple, but right in the heart of the action.
Bocas was a really interesting place as it is the most touristy place in all of Panama. In order to get between the islands and to various beaches, there were water taxis of plenty for a few dollars. There were alot of opportunities for tours and such, but we found that most people were not very accommodating. No one was able to give us a straight answer on how long we were able to stay at a hotel, or if our tour was on for the next day. We ended up having to move our hotel room twice in one hotel and then to another, better hotel (Bocas Inn) later on in the week.It was a beautiful place with very rustic scenery, but the overall vibe was much more of a backpacker scene than the typical Panamanian culture.
We were able to hire a water taxi to take us to Red Frog Beach for one day which was in the middle of a nature reserve and gorgeous. We also hung out at Aqua Lodge which was pretty much Pinocchio´s playland with swings into the water and docks to dive off of...a very young scene. I have the feeling that the reason we came away feeling the way that we did was because the town was so busy preparing for Carnaval that all of the reservations were getting extremely full.
On Thursday night, we were in touch with Erin about plans for the morning and getting excited to spend Carnaval in the small town where she´d spent a year after high school. From what we understood, it would be a great time although a great distance to get there.
Once we were across to Panama, we hopped into a van which took us to the boat to Isla Colon, the main island of Bocas del Toro. The boat was full of Argentinian travelers which was nice for us because they were all in such good spirits. We arrived to Bocas around noon and searched high and low for a hotel. We ended up at Casa Max which was pretty simple, but right in the heart of the action.
Bocas was a really interesting place as it is the most touristy place in all of Panama. In order to get between the islands and to various beaches, there were water taxis of plenty for a few dollars. There were alot of opportunities for tours and such, but we found that most people were not very accommodating. No one was able to give us a straight answer on how long we were able to stay at a hotel, or if our tour was on for the next day. We ended up having to move our hotel room twice in one hotel and then to another, better hotel (Bocas Inn) later on in the week.It was a beautiful place with very rustic scenery, but the overall vibe was much more of a backpacker scene than the typical Panamanian culture.
We were able to hire a water taxi to take us to Red Frog Beach for one day which was in the middle of a nature reserve and gorgeous. We also hung out at Aqua Lodge which was pretty much Pinocchio´s playland with swings into the water and docks to dive off of...a very young scene. I have the feeling that the reason we came away feeling the way that we did was because the town was so busy preparing for Carnaval that all of the reservations were getting extremely full.
On Thursday night, we were in touch with Erin about plans for the morning and getting excited to spend Carnaval in the small town where she´d spent a year after high school. From what we understood, it would be a great time although a great distance to get there.
Tuesday, February 17, 2009
Days 84-92 - Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica
Puerto Viejo is a great town on the South Caribbean coast of Costa Rica. I arrived on Saturday early evening to Hotel Pura Vida (the Costa Rican motto meaning "pure life"). It was a great, spacious place owned by a Chilean-German couple a few blocks from the main street in town. The town itself has an interesting vibe as it is still very much Costa Rica, but also heavily influenced by Caribbean cultures like Jamaica. The people speak a patois more heavy in Spanish than English, but most are able to speak both fluently. The bars and restaurants are all full of reggae music, but also feature salsa at times.
The first few days I was in Puerto Viejo, I met a brother and sister from Chicago and two Canadian guys...it was nice to have an instant group of people to hang out with. Also, the locals were very nice and were eager to join us. It rained quite a bit throughout the week, but there were several days of beautiful weather where we were able to explore the beaches beyond the main beach in town.
One day, I took the bus to Cahuita by myself to explore the National Park. I was able to spot some howler monkeys in the trees and blue monarch butterflies as I walked through. The town itself was quite quiet, so I was pleased that I had decided to stay in Puerto Viejo the entire time.
Another day, the group of us rented a golf cart from town and went to the beach at Punta Uva where one of our friends was staying and then further on to Manzanillo...both beautiful, more secluded beaches with only a handful of places around.
The nightlife in town was great as well. I felt very safe going out with my group and we enjoyed getting to know the people and places around. It was cool to see the fusion of cultures in full force especially coming from the North and West of Costa Rica which are far more tourist oriented.
On Friday, Gretchen and her boyfriend arrived. It was great to add them to our group. Her boyfriend is from the West of Costa Rica, and he had a few friends who had moved to town so we had additional people looking out for us.
The first few days I was in Puerto Viejo, I met a brother and sister from Chicago and two Canadian guys...it was nice to have an instant group of people to hang out with. Also, the locals were very nice and were eager to join us. It rained quite a bit throughout the week, but there were several days of beautiful weather where we were able to explore the beaches beyond the main beach in town.
One day, I took the bus to Cahuita by myself to explore the National Park. I was able to spot some howler monkeys in the trees and blue monarch butterflies as I walked through. The town itself was quite quiet, so I was pleased that I had decided to stay in Puerto Viejo the entire time.
Another day, the group of us rented a golf cart from town and went to the beach at Punta Uva where one of our friends was staying and then further on to Manzanillo...both beautiful, more secluded beaches with only a handful of places around.
The nightlife in town was great as well. I felt very safe going out with my group and we enjoyed getting to know the people and places around. It was cool to see the fusion of cultures in full force especially coming from the North and West of Costa Rica which are far more tourist oriented.
On Friday, Gretchen and her boyfriend arrived. It was great to add them to our group. Her boyfriend is from the West of Costa Rica, and he had a few friends who had moved to town so we had additional people looking out for us.
Friday, February 6, 2009
Days 80-83 - Monteverde & Arenal, Costa Rica
What a surprise to wake up and have it be pouring rain and cold! I thought I was escaping the winter of the NorthEast. Turns out there was a cold front passing through all of Costa Rica and being that Monteverde is in the mountains and the middle of the rainforest, we definitely felt the difference in temperature. Winds were pretty strong, but I still made it out in time for my 10:30 tour of the suspension bridges. We were taken in vans to Selvatura Park outside of town where there are 8 bridges built into the canopy from which you can see the flora and fauna of the rainforest. It was quite beautiful and I was able to capture some great scenery although I came back soaking wet. Luckily, there were hot showers at Sleepers which I could take advantage of. The rest of the day was pretty mellow...I met some other travelers from Czech Republic, the US and Canada and chatted with them about where they have been to compare notes.
The following day, the conditions became worse...the wind was stronger and the rain heavier. I'd booked the "Extremo" canopy tour and was very excited to undertake the 14 ziplines (the longest of which was 750 m), 1 several hundred foot rappel and a tarzan swing. This was by far the BEST canopy tour I've been on to date and we had a great group too. Everyone was young and adventurous. We took some pictures and someone even captured a video of me during my tarzan swing experience...pretty much it was a free fall drop for several hundred feet followed by a pendulum swing into the rainforest...it was absolutely exhilarating! Once we'd finished up the program, it was late in the afternoon and everyone was soaked. Again, drained from the weather, I took it easy and relaxed.
Early Thursday morning, one of the girls from the hostel, Margot, was headed to Arenal with me and we departed for our Jeep-Boat-Jeep excursion. We took a car from Monteverde to Lake Arenal, a boat to the other side of the lake, and then another car to our next destination. We'd both decided to stay at the Arenal Backpacker's Resort; a "five star hostel". It was pretty nice for a hostel, but definitely not 5 stars in my book. We ran into another girl I'd met in Ometepe, Chris, and she joined up with us. We were excited to book the tour of the natural hot springs. In Arenal, there are several destinations where resorts have taken the natural hot springs from the Arenal Volcano and turned them into spas. We decided to do a tour which included a 2 hour hike of the volcano followed by a visit to the nicest hot springs in town, Tabacon. It was a bit pricey, but we couldn't resist as many people said that the cost was well worth it. There were three other Canadian girls on our tour as well which was a nice group for the afternoon/evening.
The hike was a bit wet as it was still raining in Arenal, but once we got to Tabacon, we were all in heaven! (Mom, you would've loved this place!) It was as if you were at the many pools in a 5-star (legitimate 5-star) resort, but the pools were warmer than jacuzzis and natural flowing water from the volcano. Some pools even had waterfalls and rapids in them and sandy bottoms. It was fantastic. The surroundings were also great because the tropical plants and trees of the rainforest remained in tact there. We had a few hours to hang out before going to dinner at the resort's restaurant. It was a great excursion.
Friday morning, I hoped it would clear up, but it was still raining. I took the day to straighten out my plans for the next leg of my journey...Puerto Viejo, on the Caribbean Coast of Costa Rica. I'll be there for about a week and also meet up with Gretchen before continuing on to Panama.
The following day, the conditions became worse...the wind was stronger and the rain heavier. I'd booked the "Extremo" canopy tour and was very excited to undertake the 14 ziplines (the longest of which was 750 m), 1 several hundred foot rappel and a tarzan swing. This was by far the BEST canopy tour I've been on to date and we had a great group too. Everyone was young and adventurous. We took some pictures and someone even captured a video of me during my tarzan swing experience...pretty much it was a free fall drop for several hundred feet followed by a pendulum swing into the rainforest...it was absolutely exhilarating! Once we'd finished up the program, it was late in the afternoon and everyone was soaked. Again, drained from the weather, I took it easy and relaxed.
Early Thursday morning, one of the girls from the hostel, Margot, was headed to Arenal with me and we departed for our Jeep-Boat-Jeep excursion. We took a car from Monteverde to Lake Arenal, a boat to the other side of the lake, and then another car to our next destination. We'd both decided to stay at the Arenal Backpacker's Resort; a "five star hostel". It was pretty nice for a hostel, but definitely not 5 stars in my book. We ran into another girl I'd met in Ometepe, Chris, and she joined up with us. We were excited to book the tour of the natural hot springs. In Arenal, there are several destinations where resorts have taken the natural hot springs from the Arenal Volcano and turned them into spas. We decided to do a tour which included a 2 hour hike of the volcano followed by a visit to the nicest hot springs in town, Tabacon. It was a bit pricey, but we couldn't resist as many people said that the cost was well worth it. There were three other Canadian girls on our tour as well which was a nice group for the afternoon/evening.
The hike was a bit wet as it was still raining in Arenal, but once we got to Tabacon, we were all in heaven! (Mom, you would've loved this place!) It was as if you were at the many pools in a 5-star (legitimate 5-star) resort, but the pools were warmer than jacuzzis and natural flowing water from the volcano. Some pools even had waterfalls and rapids in them and sandy bottoms. It was fantastic. The surroundings were also great because the tropical plants and trees of the rainforest remained in tact there. We had a few hours to hang out before going to dinner at the resort's restaurant. It was a great excursion.
Friday morning, I hoped it would clear up, but it was still raining. I took the day to straighten out my plans for the next leg of my journey...Puerto Viejo, on the Caribbean Coast of Costa Rica. I'll be there for about a week and also meet up with Gretchen before continuing on to Panama.
Tuesday, February 3, 2009
Days 72-79 - San Juan del Sur & Isla de Ometepe, Nicaragua
It was great to be back in San Juan in a place where I was familiar and comfortable, especially the day after Nic left to the Bahamas. I was able to reconnect with the friends I have there and spend the early part of the week getting the next legs of my travels organized. I also had the opportunity to go out on my friend, Justin's boat "Gypsy" while I was in town. He's just begun to do private charters along the coastline which is great!
On Friday morning, I headed to Isla de Ometepe for a few days. Originally, some friends from San Juan were going to join me, but due to work obligations coming up I ended up traveling solo. Isla de Ometepe is an island in Lago de Nicaragua comprised of two volcanoes: Concepcion (active) and Maderas (inactive). There are great crater lakes, waterfalls and hikes to experience. My hostel, Hacienda Merida, was great because they not only worked out tours for us, but they also rented kayaks, bikes and horses . They also had a beautiful fishing pier that you can dive off of. Dining was interesting as well as each night at dinner, every guest sat around together at the same time where we were able to discuss the day's adventures.
I was going to do the hike up volcan Maderas, but when I understood that it was 8 hours return and I'd forgotten socks, I decided against it and rented a bike. I undertook the 38km trek around the base of the volcano which was gorgeous. It was a very difficult ride (known to take 5 hours) with lots of ups and downs. About 30km into the ride, I was getting pretty tired and sped up a great deal down one of the hills. Next thing I knew, I'd fallen off the bike on the side of the road. There were no oncoming vehicles, but I was still pretty cut up. Luckily, a few meters down the road I spotted a truck and a bunch of people waiting. They turned out to be Jehovah's Witnesses who offered to drive me back to my hostel. It was quite funny because in the mean while, a few of them presented me with brochures and asked in Spanish if I was interested in learning more about the Bible. I politely answered that I respect what they are doing, but am not religious in that way. They were ok with that response and proceeded to take me back to Hacienda Merida. The next day I was able to kayak a bit before getting my cab back to the port for my return ferry.
While on the ferry, I overheard a guy of similar age to me who was headed to San Juan so I asked if he wanted to share a cab. He had rented a car to travel around Nicaragua, so I was able to get a ride with him back to town. We arrived back around 3 on Sunday afternoon and as soon as I walked out of the car, I saw a good friend of mine on the street with whom I'd planned to meet up with later on. We watched the Super Bowl at a bar in town and another friend of ours played live music in the longer breaks.
Early Monday morning, I headed to Rivas (about 30 minutes from San Juan) to catch my bus back across the Costa Rican border. The bus ride was smooth aside from the 2.5 hour layover at the border. I got off in Liberia and hired a cab to take me to Monteverde (cloud forests). It was a lengthy and expensive ride, but I was happy to be taken directly there especially following the fiasco at the border that afternoon. The sunset over one of the beautiful crater lakes and I soon arrived at Sleepers Sleep Cheaper...I know, cheesy name, but got the best reviews I found on trip advisor for backpackers. I was greeted by the owner who had expected me and immediately made me feel at home again.
On Friday morning, I headed to Isla de Ometepe for a few days. Originally, some friends from San Juan were going to join me, but due to work obligations coming up I ended up traveling solo. Isla de Ometepe is an island in Lago de Nicaragua comprised of two volcanoes: Concepcion (active) and Maderas (inactive). There are great crater lakes, waterfalls and hikes to experience. My hostel, Hacienda Merida, was great because they not only worked out tours for us, but they also rented kayaks, bikes and horses . They also had a beautiful fishing pier that you can dive off of. Dining was interesting as well as each night at dinner, every guest sat around together at the same time where we were able to discuss the day's adventures.
I was going to do the hike up volcan Maderas, but when I understood that it was 8 hours return and I'd forgotten socks, I decided against it and rented a bike. I undertook the 38km trek around the base of the volcano which was gorgeous. It was a very difficult ride (known to take 5 hours) with lots of ups and downs. About 30km into the ride, I was getting pretty tired and sped up a great deal down one of the hills. Next thing I knew, I'd fallen off the bike on the side of the road. There were no oncoming vehicles, but I was still pretty cut up. Luckily, a few meters down the road I spotted a truck and a bunch of people waiting. They turned out to be Jehovah's Witnesses who offered to drive me back to my hostel. It was quite funny because in the mean while, a few of them presented me with brochures and asked in Spanish if I was interested in learning more about the Bible. I politely answered that I respect what they are doing, but am not religious in that way. They were ok with that response and proceeded to take me back to Hacienda Merida. The next day I was able to kayak a bit before getting my cab back to the port for my return ferry.
While on the ferry, I overheard a guy of similar age to me who was headed to San Juan so I asked if he wanted to share a cab. He had rented a car to travel around Nicaragua, so I was able to get a ride with him back to town. We arrived back around 3 on Sunday afternoon and as soon as I walked out of the car, I saw a good friend of mine on the street with whom I'd planned to meet up with later on. We watched the Super Bowl at a bar in town and another friend of ours played live music in the longer breaks.
Early Monday morning, I headed to Rivas (about 30 minutes from San Juan) to catch my bus back across the Costa Rican border. The bus ride was smooth aside from the 2.5 hour layover at the border. I got off in Liberia and hired a cab to take me to Monteverde (cloud forests). It was a lengthy and expensive ride, but I was happy to be taken directly there especially following the fiasco at the border that afternoon. The sunset over one of the beautiful crater lakes and I soon arrived at Sleepers Sleep Cheaper...I know, cheesy name, but got the best reviews I found on trip advisor for backpackers. I was greeted by the owner who had expected me and immediately made me feel at home again.
Tuesday, January 27, 2009
Days 68-71 - Mal Pais/Santa Teresa & San Jose, Costa Rica
The beaches of the Mal Pais/Santa Teresa region are absolutely stunning. Nic and I managed to walk several kilometers along the beach each day with the only hiccup being that none of the bank machines worked for the entire length of our visit. I had to go into the bank during hours of operation with my passport and withdraw from my debit card, good thing it´s linked up to a credit card.
There was a great reggae scene and also an electronica beach party which we discovered. It was also nice to meet lots of Israelis and Argentinians in our time there. The vibe was great and we had loads of fun.
On Sunday morning, we packed up and headed for the ferry in Paquera which brought us to Puntarenas. From there, we hired a cab to San Jose as Nic was flying out the next day. We stayed at Hotel Presidente recommended by Kels. It was right in the center of downtown which was convenient for both of us because I was leaving early in the AM Monday as well headed back to Nicaragua for a little while. We took it easy in San Jose and enjoyed our last night traveling together.
Monday morning around 6, I went to the Tica Bus terminal hoping to book a ticket on the bus to Nicaragua leaving at 730a. Much to my dismay, I wasn´t able, but could go on the 1230 bus. I was not looking forward to sitting in the station for 6 hours, but it would´ve been a big pain to lug all of my things back to the hotel. Around 715, I asked again if there was any way I could get on the bus and with my luck, I got a seat! The ride to the border was shorter than I´d expected although the border process was not organized by any stretch of the imagination. I was aided by an Italian guy who used to live in NYC and moved to Costa Rica several years ago, so it was a bit less stressful.
In the mid-afternoon, I arrived back to San Juan del Sur to meet up with some friends I´d met the last time visiting. It is nice to be in a place where I am comfortable to begin the next part of my adventure solo.
There was a great reggae scene and also an electronica beach party which we discovered. It was also nice to meet lots of Israelis and Argentinians in our time there. The vibe was great and we had loads of fun.
On Sunday morning, we packed up and headed for the ferry in Paquera which brought us to Puntarenas. From there, we hired a cab to San Jose as Nic was flying out the next day. We stayed at Hotel Presidente recommended by Kels. It was right in the center of downtown which was convenient for both of us because I was leaving early in the AM Monday as well headed back to Nicaragua for a little while. We took it easy in San Jose and enjoyed our last night traveling together.
Monday morning around 6, I went to the Tica Bus terminal hoping to book a ticket on the bus to Nicaragua leaving at 730a. Much to my dismay, I wasn´t able, but could go on the 1230 bus. I was not looking forward to sitting in the station for 6 hours, but it would´ve been a big pain to lug all of my things back to the hotel. Around 715, I asked again if there was any way I could get on the bus and with my luck, I got a seat! The ride to the border was shorter than I´d expected although the border process was not organized by any stretch of the imagination. I was aided by an Italian guy who used to live in NYC and moved to Costa Rica several years ago, so it was a bit less stressful.
In the mid-afternoon, I arrived back to San Juan del Sur to meet up with some friends I´d met the last time visiting. It is nice to be in a place where I am comfortable to begin the next part of my adventure solo.
Friday, January 23, 2009
Days 65-67 - Montezuma and Mal Pais/Santa Teresa, Costa Rica
It has been great spending a few days in Montezuma. It is quite relaxed and since our hotel has a sister property on the beach (Ylang Ylang), we were able to utilize their pool and beachfront amenities. We spent most of our days exploring the beachfront and relaxing at the pool. On Tuesday, I did a water hike to La Cascada (waterfall) in the morning. It was gorgeous although a bit tough as the hike was through rivers and up pretty steep rock formations. Nic decided ahead of time that she was not going to go, so I had no problem going there by myself.
For sunsets and at night, we enjoyed the few beachfront restaurant-bar options in town...among our favorites were CoColores which had incredible eclectic cuisine and Chico´s which attracted both a local and tourist crowd later on.
On Thursday morning, we hired a cab to take us to Mal Pais-Santa Teresa which was about 45 minute drive on a dirt road. When we arrived, we were excited to explore these towns as we´d heard very good things from other travelers we´d met along the way. We booked a room at Hotel Tropico Latino which is gorgeous and right on the beach. It is pretty simple, but exactly what we were looking for. We found a spot for lunch by the bank as we had to wait for the tellers to open to take out money as no ATM in town had money in it. The waitress at lunch gave us the lay of the land and suggestions for where to go. Following, we were able to have success at the bank as there was no ATM in Montezuma either.
We wandered down the beach several kilometers from Playa Carmen past Santa Teresa and to Playa Hermosa. The beaches here are some of the most gorgeous I´ve seen in my entire life. On the way back to the hotel, we walked along the dirt road to see what variety of restaurants and shops were along the way. The vibe is very laid back, but well maintained. There are tons of yoga studios and spas set back and many businesses are Israeli-owned which I found interesting. There´s even a kosher burger place here!
We uncovered a Chilean-owned Thai restaurant called Alma where we went for dinner. The food was incredible and we were treated like royalty as we were the only customers at the time. It was a relatively new place, and the decor and presentation were worthy of us spreading the word.
Santa Teresa in particular is the type of place where people come to visit and never leave. It is touristy enough, but still maintains the rustic feel and beauty of an undiscovered place.
For sunsets and at night, we enjoyed the few beachfront restaurant-bar options in town...among our favorites were CoColores which had incredible eclectic cuisine and Chico´s which attracted both a local and tourist crowd later on.
On Thursday morning, we hired a cab to take us to Mal Pais-Santa Teresa which was about 45 minute drive on a dirt road. When we arrived, we were excited to explore these towns as we´d heard very good things from other travelers we´d met along the way. We booked a room at Hotel Tropico Latino which is gorgeous and right on the beach. It is pretty simple, but exactly what we were looking for. We found a spot for lunch by the bank as we had to wait for the tellers to open to take out money as no ATM in town had money in it. The waitress at lunch gave us the lay of the land and suggestions for where to go. Following, we were able to have success at the bank as there was no ATM in Montezuma either.
We wandered down the beach several kilometers from Playa Carmen past Santa Teresa and to Playa Hermosa. The beaches here are some of the most gorgeous I´ve seen in my entire life. On the way back to the hotel, we walked along the dirt road to see what variety of restaurants and shops were along the way. The vibe is very laid back, but well maintained. There are tons of yoga studios and spas set back and many businesses are Israeli-owned which I found interesting. There´s even a kosher burger place here!
We uncovered a Chilean-owned Thai restaurant called Alma where we went for dinner. The food was incredible and we were treated like royalty as we were the only customers at the time. It was a relatively new place, and the decor and presentation were worthy of us spreading the word.
Santa Teresa in particular is the type of place where people come to visit and never leave. It is touristy enough, but still maintains the rustic feel and beauty of an undiscovered place.
Monday, January 19, 2009
Days 60-64 - Jaco and Montezuma, Costa Rica
It was definitely a sad story when Kels left us on Thursday morning. We had such a great time hanging out the three of us, it was just like old times except we had nothing more to do than enjoy each others' company.
She departed to San Jose early in the morning, and Nic and I hung out by the pool and had lunch before hiring a ride from Si Como No to Gretchen's condo in Jaco. We'd heard mixed reviews about Jaco (being that it is a bit sketchy, but the going out scene is good); however, we did not doubt that Gretchen would know where to take us so we'd enjoy our visit with her.
We arrived in Jaco around 3pm and caught up for a while. Nic and Gretchen instantly found common ground which was nice as well. Later on, she took us to her favorite restaurant in town which happened to be Italian. Her boyfriend met us as well which was very nice. We had a great time perusing the scene with them. Throughout our days in Jaco, Gretchen was a great hostess and showed us the main beach as well as a few other hot spots in town, including Playa Blanca just outside which was absolutely gorgeous. The only hitch was that Nic stepped on a stingray our second day and sought medical attention. The clinic in Jaco was great and all was resolved by nightfall, so we were pleased.
Also, we went to see a reggae concert of a group from the Caribbean side (Puerto Viejo, where I'll be going shortly) at the Backyard on Playa Hermosa. This area and venue were perfect for sunset as Hermosa was much less touristy than Jaco itself. It was great to be relaxed and seeing more of a local scene in Costa Rica.
We stayed with Gretchen until Monday morning at which point Nic and I got on a boat bound for Montezuma on the southern-most tip of the Nicoya peninsula. She was a bit worried as boats are not the preferable mode of transport, but it ended up being alright.
When we arrived to Montezuma, we found El Sano Banano where we had arranged a room for a few nights and put our things down. It is great, because this town is pretty small and we are in the middle of everything...we are also able to use the facilities of their sister resort, Ylang Ylang, a 15 minute walk down the beach. Montezuma is quite serene and non-touristy...there is a hippy vibe which is a great change from the very Americanized destinations we've encountered thus far in Costa Rica.
Wednesday, January 14, 2009
Days 57-59 - Manuel Antonio, Costa Rica
Definitely interesting to be back in the Manuel Antonio/Quepos area for the first time in just about four years. We found a great last minute deal on a beautiful hotel I'd known from my last trip *Si Como No* which is on the edge of a cliff overlooking the Pacific Ocean.
We have been relaxing altogether and enjoying the last few days the three of us will have for some time until Kels comes back from Nairobi next, most likely July. She did a surf lesson yesterday which was fun and then today, we embarked on a canopy tour where you zipline from platform to platform in the rainforest canopy. I'd done a few ziplines before, so I was at ease, but as for the other two with fears of heights, not so comfortable. It ended up being a great afternoon.
Tomorrow, Kels is headed back to San Jose to fly home and Nic and I are going to Jaco to see Gretchen.
We have been relaxing altogether and enjoying the last few days the three of us will have for some time until Kels comes back from Nairobi next, most likely July. She did a surf lesson yesterday which was fun and then today, we embarked on a canopy tour where you zipline from platform to platform in the rainforest canopy. I'd done a few ziplines before, so I was at ease, but as for the other two with fears of heights, not so comfortable. It ended up being a great afternoon.
Tomorrow, Kels is headed back to San Jose to fly home and Nic and I are going to Jaco to see Gretchen.
Sunday, January 11, 2009
Days 53-56 - Tamarindo, Costa Rica
The past few days have been great with the girls! It is so nice to have two of my closest friends here with me. We are still staying in the beautiful beachfront resort, El Diria. The weather is perfect although at times a bit too hot to sit out for more than a couple of hours.
During the day, we have been sitting out by the pool and relaxing. At night, we've been going out on the town wherever the scene is on any given night. We met some girls who randomly enough are from Sharon and Brookline and know common camp friends of mine. We've also met some guys from NYC, one of which competed with me on a few pieces of business over the past year. Totally random.
Tomorrow morning, we are headed down the coast southward most likely to Manuel Antonio. I haven't been there in a few years, so it'll be interesting to see how much more developed it is now.
During the day, we have been sitting out by the pool and relaxing. At night, we've been going out on the town wherever the scene is on any given night. We met some girls who randomly enough are from Sharon and Brookline and know common camp friends of mine. We've also met some guys from NYC, one of which competed with me on a few pieces of business over the past year. Totally random.
Tomorrow morning, we are headed down the coast southward most likely to Manuel Antonio. I haven't been there in a few years, so it'll be interesting to see how much more developed it is now.
Thursday, January 8, 2009
Days 49-52 - San Juan del Sur and Tamarindo, Costa Rica
It was great to be back in San Juan again, and with the girls. My friends who live there were obviously still around, but so were two of the friends I'd met traveling which was nice. We hung out and went to the beach and the pool for a few days...a good start to the next leg of the trip.
On Wednesday morning, January 7th we packed up our bags and took a cab to the border of Costa Rica at Penas Blancas...a short 45 minute ride. Upon arriving at the border, we were a bit confused about the process. Kels momentarily misplaced her passport, but luckily found it within a few minutes and we pressed onward asking for help along the way. We went through several line ups to exit Nicaragua and enter Costa Rica and were fortunate to have a local helper get us to the front of the line (for a small incentive). Hot and cranky, we finally passed through into Costa Rica and hired a cab to take us to Tamarindo which was about a 3 hour ride.
We arrived to our beautiful four star resort, Tamarindo Diria, which Kels scored a last minute deal on. We were excited to settle in and live luxuriously for a few days.
On Wednesday morning, January 7th we packed up our bags and took a cab to the border of Costa Rica at Penas Blancas...a short 45 minute ride. Upon arriving at the border, we were a bit confused about the process. Kels momentarily misplaced her passport, but luckily found it within a few minutes and we pressed onward asking for help along the way. We went through several line ups to exit Nicaragua and enter Costa Rica and were fortunate to have a local helper get us to the front of the line (for a small incentive). Hot and cranky, we finally passed through into Costa Rica and hired a cab to take us to Tamarindo which was about a 3 hour ride.
We arrived to our beautiful four star resort, Tamarindo Diria, which Kels scored a last minute deal on. We were excited to settle in and live luxuriously for a few days.
Wednesday, January 7, 2009
Days 46-48 - Granada, Managua and San Juan del Sur.
Sarita left New Year´s Day in the morning which was sad because we had had a great time altogether for the past week. Josh and I then headed to Granada where I had not been for more than a few hours since my first week in Nicaragua. We found ourselves at Hospedaje Dorado having had no luck at our first choice, The Bearded Monkey. It was a quaint place, but the room felt a bit stale. Quickly, we decided to seek out a different option for Josh´s last night.
Having decided on one of the nicer spots right on el Parque Central, we walked down Calle Calzada, a cobblestone street filled with restaurants and had lunch before scouting out the lake at the edge of town. We walked around for a bit of time and checked in with my previous school who allowed for me to keep my cell phone for the remainder of my trip.
Later on in the evening following a rest, we went back to Calzada to a cafe for dinner. We were so excited about the menu until we were told by the waiter that they only had one item on the menu...churrasco (steak with chimichurri sauce). Good thing we both liked it! Afterward, we had a drink or two at the Bearded Monkey and met some others backpacking around Central America.
The next morning, we were thrilled to be checking out as we both felt a bit sick from the stale air in our room. We left our bags at the new hotel and headed to the artisan market in Masaya. It was interesting for Josh to see and he was able to pick up some gift items. Midway through the market, I began to feel ill so we went back to Granada. The rest of the day, I slept although I felt badly because it was Josh´s last day in Nicaragua. We had dinner that night, although I was still feeling unwell. He went out and had a fantastic night which I am happy about though.
In the morning on Saturday the 3rd, I felt a bit better. A friend of mine from San Juan was in Granada to pick up some clients headed back to San Juan, so we met up briefly and it was great to see him. Josh and I then finished packing up our things, grabbed breakfast and headed to the airport. I was sad to see Josh leave, but it was bittersweet because we had a great time traveling together...also, Nicole and Kelsi were due in a few hours later and I was anxiously awaiting their arrival.
Their flight arrived pretty much on time, although customs was a slow process. We were all extremely excited and quickly got in a cab who´d agreed to take us to San Juan earlier in the day. The only trouble was that I´d negotiated with two cab drivers, one of which was a gypsy cab. We´d decided to go with the official, more secure cab and of course the gypsy cab driver was very upset. He threatened to report the other driver and wanted us to pay him for waiting. We quickly reported him to the police and drove away. We arrived to San Juan shortly after and checked into our hotel. The Royal Chateau was pretty standard, but what we needed when we got there. It was nice to be back in San Juan and with the girls.
Having decided on one of the nicer spots right on el Parque Central, we walked down Calle Calzada, a cobblestone street filled with restaurants and had lunch before scouting out the lake at the edge of town. We walked around for a bit of time and checked in with my previous school who allowed for me to keep my cell phone for the remainder of my trip.
Later on in the evening following a rest, we went back to Calzada to a cafe for dinner. We were so excited about the menu until we were told by the waiter that they only had one item on the menu...churrasco (steak with chimichurri sauce). Good thing we both liked it! Afterward, we had a drink or two at the Bearded Monkey and met some others backpacking around Central America.
The next morning, we were thrilled to be checking out as we both felt a bit sick from the stale air in our room. We left our bags at the new hotel and headed to the artisan market in Masaya. It was interesting for Josh to see and he was able to pick up some gift items. Midway through the market, I began to feel ill so we went back to Granada. The rest of the day, I slept although I felt badly because it was Josh´s last day in Nicaragua. We had dinner that night, although I was still feeling unwell. He went out and had a fantastic night which I am happy about though.
In the morning on Saturday the 3rd, I felt a bit better. A friend of mine from San Juan was in Granada to pick up some clients headed back to San Juan, so we met up briefly and it was great to see him. Josh and I then finished packing up our things, grabbed breakfast and headed to the airport. I was sad to see Josh leave, but it was bittersweet because we had a great time traveling together...also, Nicole and Kelsi were due in a few hours later and I was anxiously awaiting their arrival.
Their flight arrived pretty much on time, although customs was a slow process. We were all extremely excited and quickly got in a cab who´d agreed to take us to San Juan earlier in the day. The only trouble was that I´d negotiated with two cab drivers, one of which was a gypsy cab. We´d decided to go with the official, more secure cab and of course the gypsy cab driver was very upset. He threatened to report the other driver and wanted us to pay him for waiting. We quickly reported him to the police and drove away. We arrived to San Juan shortly after and checked into our hotel. The Royal Chateau was pretty standard, but what we needed when we got there. It was nice to be back in San Juan and with the girls.
Day 44-45 Leon
Having gotten a great night´s sleep, we were welcomed by a fantastic breakfast at Hotel Real. The three of us were looking forward to exploring the city of Leon. We wandered around and viewed the many churches and markets while taking pictures with all of the murals we passed by. In the afternoon, it became very hot and we decided that the beach was in order for the following day. The city of Leon itself was beautiful and we enjoyed being there, however one day was just enough to satisfy us. We had a great dinner back at Via Via and called it an early night.
The next day, we got up on the early end and headed to the market just outside of town to catch the bus to Las Peñitas, a beach about 45 minutes away. The bus was packed and still, there were vendors walking through the aisle attempting to sell juice, ice cream and snacks. We ended up having to stand the entire way to the shore. Once we saw the coastline, the three of us jumped off the bus and headed to the beach. It turned out that we were at Poneloya, a more private beach lined with gorgeous homes. We realized this when on the way back, we picked up a slew of folks from Las Peñitas. Sarita pointed out that on the way back, there were what looked like scare crowes on the side of many lawns. These were the años viejos...manequins dressed and surrounded by vices to be destroyed upon the break of the new year...a tradition similarly implemented when she was living in Colombia.
Once we got back to Leon, it was time for sunset which we were able to view from the roof of our hotel. Shortly after, we went out for our New Year´s extravaganza. We went to a great restaurant on the other side of el Parque Central called Toquezal which had traditional Nicaraguan dishes as well as a variety of other options. It was great because the interior was typical of Leon as were much of the clientele. We were greeted by some street boys who paraded around with an año viejo and a drum. We gave them some change and they demanded we dance with the año viejo as they drummed around us. It was pretty hysterical.
After dinner, we walked around the park where there was a carnival and fireworks as well as several random backdrops where families were taking portraits with Santa and toy cars...we decided to join in as well. We visited a few other spots that night in Leon, and when the clock struck midnight some children set off fireworks in the middle of the square. It was a great cultural experience.
The next day, we got up on the early end and headed to the market just outside of town to catch the bus to Las Peñitas, a beach about 45 minutes away. The bus was packed and still, there were vendors walking through the aisle attempting to sell juice, ice cream and snacks. We ended up having to stand the entire way to the shore. Once we saw the coastline, the three of us jumped off the bus and headed to the beach. It turned out that we were at Poneloya, a more private beach lined with gorgeous homes. We realized this when on the way back, we picked up a slew of folks from Las Peñitas. Sarita pointed out that on the way back, there were what looked like scare crowes on the side of many lawns. These were the años viejos...manequins dressed and surrounded by vices to be destroyed upon the break of the new year...a tradition similarly implemented when she was living in Colombia.
Once we got back to Leon, it was time for sunset which we were able to view from the roof of our hotel. Shortly after, we went out for our New Year´s extravaganza. We went to a great restaurant on the other side of el Parque Central called Toquezal which had traditional Nicaraguan dishes as well as a variety of other options. It was great because the interior was typical of Leon as were much of the clientele. We were greeted by some street boys who paraded around with an año viejo and a drum. We gave them some change and they demanded we dance with the año viejo as they drummed around us. It was pretty hysterical.
After dinner, we walked around the park where there was a carnival and fireworks as well as several random backdrops where families were taking portraits with Santa and toy cars...we decided to join in as well. We visited a few other spots that night in Leon, and when the clock struck midnight some children set off fireworks in the middle of the square. It was a great cultural experience.
Thursday, January 1, 2009
Days 40-43 - Playa El Tunco (El Salvador), San Marcos de Colon (Honduras), Esteli and Leon (Nicaragua)
Another beautiful day on the beach in Playa El Tunco. Josh and Sarita took a surf lesson which was much more difficult than the one we´d taken at Playa Maderas in Nicaragua. The surf was pretty rough and very aggressive. Josh came back with a cut on his toe and Sarita seasick. They both had a great time despite the minor setbacks. We stayed on the beach until the late afternoon and had lunch again until the sunset on the beach. It is great when the service is relaxed and you have no where important to be.
When we returned to the lodge, we realized that there was no running water! We were unable to go in the pool to rinse off as we were all completely covered with sand. The lodge caretaker suggested we shower with a bucket...we paused and looked at each other before cracking up. It ended up being a great time because we just had a water fight and then jumped into the pool. Who knew that showering with a bucket could be so entertaining?
At night, we arranged for our airport driver to come pick us up in the morning for our journey to Honduras before going to the finest hotel on the beach for dinner. Hotel Roca Sunzal was pretty Americanized where the other venues on the beach were completely local to Salvadoreños. Although we all appreciated the local flavor, we were intrigued by this new spot.
The next morning, Gonsalo (our driver) arrived promptly at 9 and we headed out for the border at El Amatillo, Honduras. It took approximately 3 hours for us to arrive and once there, we walked through customs and across the border into Honduras. Of course we were hungry (again), so we stopped in to a ¨comedor¨or local eatery for lunch. The waitress looked at us as if she had never seen tourists before and offered us a choice of simply beef, chicken or fish. The food was outstanding and very typical as I had learned of comedors in my Spanish lessons. Following lunch, we walked to find another cab to take us to San Marcos de Colon, a small town bordering the Nicaraguan ¨frontera¨where we planned to stay the night. Upon our walk, Sarita stopped short and screamed when she found her name to be the national brand of ice cream. She was so excited that the family who ran the shop came out and wanted to be in pictures with her. It was hysterical.
The family helped us to find a trustworthy ride to San Marcos de Colon. We hopped in the car and 3 hours later found ourselves in the quaint, quiet border town. We were able to secure a room at the Hotel Colonial which we´d read about in the guide book before going to explore our surroundings. There were loads of cowboys wandering around town. It seemed pretty quiet and friendly. We went in to Restaurante Bonanza to look at the menu for dinner and the owner was so happy to see us that she assured us a table for later on in the evening. When we returned, the waitress was preparing for a party and let us know that the only food available to us was grilled chicken, but that we would not regret it...the food was great, but it turned out, there was a nursing school graduation that entered the restaurant shortly after. People were announced upon entry to the restaurant and songs were sung. Speeches were given and awards presented. We were laughing so hard as we were elevated and everyone in town was staring at us and wondering why we were at the graduation. When we wanted to leave, we also made a scene as we had to part the people in order to make it toward the doorway. As soon as we left the restaurant again, we burst out into laughter. What a night!
Early the next morning, we packed up and headed to the market for a minibus which would take us to the border with Nicaragua at El Espino. The ride was only 7km, but they packed enough people into the minivan that it seemed to be much longer than that. Along the way, the driver would stop and ask more people if they needed a ride to the border as well, very typical. Upon reaching the border, we again walked across a bridge into Nicaragua and only had to pay a tax and show our passports before entering the country officially.
Once we´d squared away our paperwork, a bus driver approached us and asked to where we were headed. Upon hearing Esteli, we were boarded onto the international King Quality bus and headed there. An hour later we arrived to Esteli where we found ourselves at Hotel Mariflor where we dropped our things. We had a great lunch at a local bakery we´d read about and then toured the town in search of the famous cigars, coffee and cowboy attire. Turns out, we´d needed to reserve tours before hand and had difficulty finding what we were looking to do.
After a few hours of wandering around the city, we made an executive decision to leave the hotel and continue our journey on to Leon. We paid part for our hotel as we hadn´t spent the night and hailed a cab on the street who agreed to take us to Leon although he didn´t know where it was or how far he´d be going...ridiculous. The road ended up being terrible between the two cities and our supposed 3 hour drive ended up being 5 and a half! Once we finally arrived to Leon, he fought with us about the price we´d originally agreed upon (because he didn´t know where he was agreeing to go). We settled the dispute rather quickly and got into a local cab to find a place to stay. As it was close to New Years and Christmas, many of our top choice hostels were full, but we had the help of a great consierge who found us a room at the Hotel Real.
Hotel Real is a very centrally located, clean and affordable hotel which was perfect for our needs. They were able to accommodate our timeframe as well. We were so happy to have arrived to Leon that we ran out for dinner and to celebrate. We found the restaurant at hostel Via Via which would become our ¨go-to¨for the remainder of the time in Leon.
When we returned to the lodge, we realized that there was no running water! We were unable to go in the pool to rinse off as we were all completely covered with sand. The lodge caretaker suggested we shower with a bucket...we paused and looked at each other before cracking up. It ended up being a great time because we just had a water fight and then jumped into the pool. Who knew that showering with a bucket could be so entertaining?
At night, we arranged for our airport driver to come pick us up in the morning for our journey to Honduras before going to the finest hotel on the beach for dinner. Hotel Roca Sunzal was pretty Americanized where the other venues on the beach were completely local to Salvadoreños. Although we all appreciated the local flavor, we were intrigued by this new spot.
The next morning, Gonsalo (our driver) arrived promptly at 9 and we headed out for the border at El Amatillo, Honduras. It took approximately 3 hours for us to arrive and once there, we walked through customs and across the border into Honduras. Of course we were hungry (again), so we stopped in to a ¨comedor¨or local eatery for lunch. The waitress looked at us as if she had never seen tourists before and offered us a choice of simply beef, chicken or fish. The food was outstanding and very typical as I had learned of comedors in my Spanish lessons. Following lunch, we walked to find another cab to take us to San Marcos de Colon, a small town bordering the Nicaraguan ¨frontera¨where we planned to stay the night. Upon our walk, Sarita stopped short and screamed when she found her name to be the national brand of ice cream. She was so excited that the family who ran the shop came out and wanted to be in pictures with her. It was hysterical.
The family helped us to find a trustworthy ride to San Marcos de Colon. We hopped in the car and 3 hours later found ourselves in the quaint, quiet border town. We were able to secure a room at the Hotel Colonial which we´d read about in the guide book before going to explore our surroundings. There were loads of cowboys wandering around town. It seemed pretty quiet and friendly. We went in to Restaurante Bonanza to look at the menu for dinner and the owner was so happy to see us that she assured us a table for later on in the evening. When we returned, the waitress was preparing for a party and let us know that the only food available to us was grilled chicken, but that we would not regret it...the food was great, but it turned out, there was a nursing school graduation that entered the restaurant shortly after. People were announced upon entry to the restaurant and songs were sung. Speeches were given and awards presented. We were laughing so hard as we were elevated and everyone in town was staring at us and wondering why we were at the graduation. When we wanted to leave, we also made a scene as we had to part the people in order to make it toward the doorway. As soon as we left the restaurant again, we burst out into laughter. What a night!
Early the next morning, we packed up and headed to the market for a minibus which would take us to the border with Nicaragua at El Espino. The ride was only 7km, but they packed enough people into the minivan that it seemed to be much longer than that. Along the way, the driver would stop and ask more people if they needed a ride to the border as well, very typical. Upon reaching the border, we again walked across a bridge into Nicaragua and only had to pay a tax and show our passports before entering the country officially.
Once we´d squared away our paperwork, a bus driver approached us and asked to where we were headed. Upon hearing Esteli, we were boarded onto the international King Quality bus and headed there. An hour later we arrived to Esteli where we found ourselves at Hotel Mariflor where we dropped our things. We had a great lunch at a local bakery we´d read about and then toured the town in search of the famous cigars, coffee and cowboy attire. Turns out, we´d needed to reserve tours before hand and had difficulty finding what we were looking to do.
After a few hours of wandering around the city, we made an executive decision to leave the hotel and continue our journey on to Leon. We paid part for our hotel as we hadn´t spent the night and hailed a cab on the street who agreed to take us to Leon although he didn´t know where it was or how far he´d be going...ridiculous. The road ended up being terrible between the two cities and our supposed 3 hour drive ended up being 5 and a half! Once we finally arrived to Leon, he fought with us about the price we´d originally agreed upon (because he didn´t know where he was agreeing to go). We settled the dispute rather quickly and got into a local cab to find a place to stay. As it was close to New Years and Christmas, many of our top choice hostels were full, but we had the help of a great consierge who found us a room at the Hotel Real.
Hotel Real is a very centrally located, clean and affordable hotel which was perfect for our needs. They were able to accommodate our timeframe as well. We were so happy to have arrived to Leon that we ran out for dinner and to celebrate. We found the restaurant at hostel Via Via which would become our ¨go-to¨for the remainder of the time in Leon.
Monday, December 29, 2008
Day 39 - Managua & Playa El Tunco, El Salvador
We woke up relatively early on the 26th, brimming with excitement to get out of our room, but more importantly to get on our flight to El Salvador! Around mid-morning, we walked back across the street and checked in to our flight. The attendant tagged our bags and we went through security with out a hitch aside from the check of my massive bag of liquids in my carry on. Once we had the chance to sit and go through our boarding materials, Sarita noticed that we were in business class. I was in disbelief, but in reading through the sleeve, we were entitled to a VIP lounge visit and all of the other amenities! I guess that is why the one-way flight was more costly than we´d expected...added bonus!
We boarded the plane and received complimentary drinks and roasted nuts (Sarita´s highlight) from a very hospitable staff. Before we could even turn on our iPods, we were descending to San Salvador. Hilarious, we had been in business class for a 30 minute flight. We were definitely in hysterics.
Having reached El Salvador, we hopped in a cab straight to the coast. We arrived to Playa El Tunco and were extremely excited. The town was a strip of shops and restaurants surrounded by surfer inns. Our place was great as there was a pool and outdoor living room and one block from the ocean. We immediately changed and hit the beach! The surf was a bit strong, but the temperature of the water beautiful. We settled down for a late lunch and watched the sun set from the restaurant. Once the sun had set, a beach bar opened lined with tiki torches where they were screening surf videos. We took a seat there and enjoyed being outside and viewing the gorgeous starry sky. It was really nice to be able to have some cousin bonding time together.
Later on that evening, we met some guys from San Salvador who gave us tips on where to surf and the four different types of breaks so we´d be prepared for the next days activities.
We boarded the plane and received complimentary drinks and roasted nuts (Sarita´s highlight) from a very hospitable staff. Before we could even turn on our iPods, we were descending to San Salvador. Hilarious, we had been in business class for a 30 minute flight. We were definitely in hysterics.
Having reached El Salvador, we hopped in a cab straight to the coast. We arrived to Playa El Tunco and were extremely excited. The town was a strip of shops and restaurants surrounded by surfer inns. Our place was great as there was a pool and outdoor living room and one block from the ocean. We immediately changed and hit the beach! The surf was a bit strong, but the temperature of the water beautiful. We settled down for a late lunch and watched the sun set from the restaurant. Once the sun had set, a beach bar opened lined with tiki torches where they were screening surf videos. We took a seat there and enjoyed being outside and viewing the gorgeous starry sky. It was really nice to be able to have some cousin bonding time together.
Later on that evening, we met some guys from San Salvador who gave us tips on where to surf and the four different types of breaks so we´d be prepared for the next days activities.
Days 33-38 - Managua & San Juan del Sur
Left San Juan del Sur mid day on December 20th as I´d planned to meet up with Laura´s cousin Penn and her husband in Managua for dinner before greeting Josh at the airport. My ride from San Juan got a bit screwed up due to another couple I was counting on, so I ended up catching the bus. It took me a while to make the journey as I had to change buses at Rivas and then change terminals to get the express to Managua. I waited for about an hour for the express when a local pulled up, so I decided to get on. Due to my late arrival in Managua, Penn and her husband Doug picked me up from Mercado Huembes and we went straight to the airport. We had a great visit and discussed my experiences thusfar in Nicaragua. It was great to finally meet them as we´d been in touch over the phone for a bit of time. It was also nice to meet someone else from Laura´s family who was not at the wedding this summer. Following dinner, I went across the street and checked in to the hotel. Once I was settled, I received a call from Josh that his flight had been canceled and that he would not arrive until Tuesday! Yikes!
About an hour later, he had worked his way to the front of the line and managed to secure a seat on a flight to Managua the next day...and in first class! Although I was excited that he´d arrive sooner rather than later, we decided to cancel our Corn Islands portion of the trip for the moment as we´d pretty much get there and have to turn back to meet Sarita at the airport. I sent emails to cancel our arrangements which found out later were non-refundable, and we decided to head straight back to San Juan del Sur having arranged to be put up in the Secret Cove Inn again. I´ll try to make it back to the Corn Islands before returning home as I´ve heard that they are the highlight of many people´s Nicaraguan experiences.
Josh arrived around 4pm the following day and we got in a cab for San Juan. We missed the sunset by a few minutes, but were extremely happy to be at the beach...and in a town where I was very comfortable. I connected with a few friends who were in San Juan and we had a great night there. Over the next few days, we went to a few different beaches and Josh took up surfing. I was not surprised, but he was able to stand up on his second wave and continued to do well the remainder of the first afternoon. We also were able to take advantage of the pool at the Pelican Eyes resort up the hill from town which was a great place for him to unwind from the craziness of NYC. We met another friend, Justin, at the Secret Cove who´d sailed his boat from LA with some friends in order to settle in San Juan. He is Josh´s age and we were both very intrigued by his situation. Justin will be in San Juan when I return with Nic and Kels in early January, so maybe we´ll be able to get on the boat.
Following a great time in San Juan, on Christmas day we packed our bags, said our goodbyes and headed back to Managua to meet Sarita at the airport. Having checked her flights, we were delighted that she would make it in on time. Upon our arrival to the hotel, we saw that she had a slight delay in Atlanta, but would still make it to us that evening. We greeted her later on and the three of us had some time to catch up and get excited for the next leg of the trip! The only horrific detail is that our room was infested with bed bugs and we were all disgusted!
About an hour later, he had worked his way to the front of the line and managed to secure a seat on a flight to Managua the next day...and in first class! Although I was excited that he´d arrive sooner rather than later, we decided to cancel our Corn Islands portion of the trip for the moment as we´d pretty much get there and have to turn back to meet Sarita at the airport. I sent emails to cancel our arrangements which found out later were non-refundable, and we decided to head straight back to San Juan del Sur having arranged to be put up in the Secret Cove Inn again. I´ll try to make it back to the Corn Islands before returning home as I´ve heard that they are the highlight of many people´s Nicaraguan experiences.
Josh arrived around 4pm the following day and we got in a cab for San Juan. We missed the sunset by a few minutes, but were extremely happy to be at the beach...and in a town where I was very comfortable. I connected with a few friends who were in San Juan and we had a great night there. Over the next few days, we went to a few different beaches and Josh took up surfing. I was not surprised, but he was able to stand up on his second wave and continued to do well the remainder of the first afternoon. We also were able to take advantage of the pool at the Pelican Eyes resort up the hill from town which was a great place for him to unwind from the craziness of NYC. We met another friend, Justin, at the Secret Cove who´d sailed his boat from LA with some friends in order to settle in San Juan. He is Josh´s age and we were both very intrigued by his situation. Justin will be in San Juan when I return with Nic and Kels in early January, so maybe we´ll be able to get on the boat.
Following a great time in San Juan, on Christmas day we packed our bags, said our goodbyes and headed back to Managua to meet Sarita at the airport. Having checked her flights, we were delighted that she would make it in on time. Upon our arrival to the hotel, we saw that she had a slight delay in Atlanta, but would still make it to us that evening. We greeted her later on and the three of us had some time to catch up and get excited for the next leg of the trip! The only horrific detail is that our room was infested with bed bugs and we were all disgusted!
Friday, December 19, 2008
Days 26-32 San Juan del Sur
This past week has been VERY relaxing. Each day getting up, having breakfast and either heading to the beach or the pool at Pelican Eyes (a fine resort just up the hill from town). The weather has been fantastic and it´s been great just taking a week to chill out before the extensive traveling begins. It has been nice also because I´ve had some friends here to hang out with that I´ve met at the Spanish school and through other friends. This town is great because it is small enough where you feel that there are enough options, but also that you are safe to wander around alone day or night. I am staying at an inn called the Secret Cove where the owners are originally from California. They are very nice and accommodating. They live at the inn, so you know that your belongings are always safe and sound. Tomorrow, I am headed back to Managua to have dinner with Laura´s cousin, Penn, and to meet up with Josh when he arrives at the airport. We´ve booked the airport hotel so that we won´t have to run around early in the morning for our flight to the Corn Islands.
Saturday, December 13, 2008
Days 21-25 - Managua
This past week was a very interesting experience being in the capital city of Managua. The city itself is very spread out and comprised of over 200 barrios (neighborhoods). My Spanish lessons were 4 hours each day comprised of 2 hours grammar and 2 hours conversation. My grammar professor was not very good, but my conversation professor was fantastic. There were 8 other students there this week which was nice to have some camaraderie. One couple had retired to Costa Rica from California and several others were from Belgium, Switzerland and Holland. In the afternoons, I went home to the family for lunch and met back up around 1 for our activity. In the evenings, I played volleyball in the street with the younger girls and their neighbors. Their neighborhood was pretty nice and very safe; however, I was told that many of the boundaries between barrios are blurred and even crossing the wrong street could be dangerous. Aside from the volleyball, I pretty much took it easy this week and spent time in the house at night.
Monday, we went to Mercado Roberto Huembes which is also one of the main bus terminals in Managua. Pretty crazy there...they have everything from artistic goods, barber shops, shoemakers and clothing stores to the traditional fruits, vegetables and meat sections. We also rode on one of the city buses which was a pretty crazy experience. Each of the bus drivers takes so much pride in their bus and decorates it to show their personality. Some of them have tinted windows and blast regueton while others are a shrine to Jesus...pretty outrageous.
Tuesday, we visited the Malecon (boardwalk on the lake) and went to El Mirador (lookout point) where they house the Sandino Museum. It was interesting to see how Managua is attempting to draw in more tourism and also to learn more about the history of the country. At El Mirador, our guide from the school showed us a canopy tour where at night apparently the mob takes their victims to be tortured (Laguna de Tiscapa). It was cool to see and also to get a better understanding of how the city is organized.
Wednesday, we attempted to visit an Archaeological museum on the edge of town, but even though the school called in the morning, it was closed when we arrived. Upon waiting for the bus to take us back toward the heart of the city, a few teenage boys came around as well. When the bus came, one of them grabbed my purse and tried to take it and run off. I was extremely quick and slammed my arm down to my side and was able to hold on to all of my things. Apparently, Managua is notorious for muggings and December is the high time, so no one was really surprised that one of us had an experience of that nature. Luckily, the bus driver noticed what was going on and did not allow him on the bus. I am happy that this happened because although a bit nerveracking, better to have a humbling experience while with a Nicaraguan. A bit of time later in the afternoon, we visited El Palacio Nacional which is the former residence of the President and currently the National Museum. We had a great guide who explained all of the flora and fauna in Nicaragua as well as the cultural diversity in the country due to its position in the middle of Central America. On the second floor, we were able to stop in at a performance where teenage girls and guys were doing traditional Nicaraguan dances. Imagine Caribbean rhythms mixed with Latin music...it was great.
Thursday, there was a hike organized at Chocoyero Reservacion. We had a local guide who showed us all of the different species of wildlife around including monarch butterflies, white faced monkeys and a variety of tropical birds. It was really beautiful there and also nice to get out of the heat of Managua.
Friday straight after classes, I'd arranged to have a taxi take me to the bus station as I planned to head back to San Juan del Sur to see some friends. I had lunch with the family and bid them goodbye before getting on the bus at 1:30. I arrived to San Juan del Sur around 5 and had arranged to stay back at the Spanish school where I'd been the week before as one of my friends was still there. I had never been so happy to see the beach. Being in Managua was a great experience, but not a place I would love to spend a lot of time.
Monday, we went to Mercado Roberto Huembes which is also one of the main bus terminals in Managua. Pretty crazy there...they have everything from artistic goods, barber shops, shoemakers and clothing stores to the traditional fruits, vegetables and meat sections. We also rode on one of the city buses which was a pretty crazy experience. Each of the bus drivers takes so much pride in their bus and decorates it to show their personality. Some of them have tinted windows and blast regueton while others are a shrine to Jesus...pretty outrageous.
Tuesday, we visited the Malecon (boardwalk on the lake) and went to El Mirador (lookout point) where they house the Sandino Museum. It was interesting to see how Managua is attempting to draw in more tourism and also to learn more about the history of the country. At El Mirador, our guide from the school showed us a canopy tour where at night apparently the mob takes their victims to be tortured (Laguna de Tiscapa). It was cool to see and also to get a better understanding of how the city is organized.
Wednesday, we attempted to visit an Archaeological museum on the edge of town, but even though the school called in the morning, it was closed when we arrived. Upon waiting for the bus to take us back toward the heart of the city, a few teenage boys came around as well. When the bus came, one of them grabbed my purse and tried to take it and run off. I was extremely quick and slammed my arm down to my side and was able to hold on to all of my things. Apparently, Managua is notorious for muggings and December is the high time, so no one was really surprised that one of us had an experience of that nature. Luckily, the bus driver noticed what was going on and did not allow him on the bus. I am happy that this happened because although a bit nerveracking, better to have a humbling experience while with a Nicaraguan. A bit of time later in the afternoon, we visited El Palacio Nacional which is the former residence of the President and currently the National Museum. We had a great guide who explained all of the flora and fauna in Nicaragua as well as the cultural diversity in the country due to its position in the middle of Central America. On the second floor, we were able to stop in at a performance where teenage girls and guys were doing traditional Nicaraguan dances. Imagine Caribbean rhythms mixed with Latin music...it was great.
Thursday, there was a hike organized at Chocoyero Reservacion. We had a local guide who showed us all of the different species of wildlife around including monarch butterflies, white faced monkeys and a variety of tropical birds. It was really beautiful there and also nice to get out of the heat of Managua.
Friday straight after classes, I'd arranged to have a taxi take me to the bus station as I planned to head back to San Juan del Sur to see some friends. I had lunch with the family and bid them goodbye before getting on the bus at 1:30. I arrived to San Juan del Sur around 5 and had arranged to stay back at the Spanish school where I'd been the week before as one of my friends was still there. I had never been so happy to see the beach. Being in Managua was a great experience, but not a place I would love to spend a lot of time.
Monday, December 8, 2008
Days 18-20 - San Juan del Sur and Managua
The weekend was here and I had finished up my week of classes at Spanish Ya! All in all a great experience. Friday afternoon, Gretchen and I had arranged for a lesson with the husband of the woman who runs the school. He took us to Playa Maderas with a few of his friends and gave us the rundown on the beach before getting in the water. It was more difficult for me because I had never done any snowboarding or sports of this nature, but still a great time. I was able to stand up once which I was proud about. After the lesson and we were ready for a break, we wandered away from the squatter-like cafe on Maderas and toward the ¨Hideout Surf Camp¨where he knew the owner. This place was legitimately straight out of Peter Pan and the lost boys. These guys were situated at the top of a massive rock fomation in a tree house, practicing skateboarding on a make-shift ramp. Definitely a sight to see. We continued wandering for a bit before turning back for Maderas. Following a beautiful sunset, we headed back into town for a quick bite before heading out. My friend Mascha from Granada was in San Juan too, so we met up with her for the night. There is definitely great nightlife in San Juan!
Saturday morning, we had arranged for a boatride with some of the guys we had met as well and left port at 10am. We cruised around for a while looking at the different beaches in the area and dropped anchor for a while to do a bit of swimming. Alan, the husband of the school owner is also a fisherman, so he dove in with his harpoon and came back up with a game fish! Pretty cool. We were also on board with a Canadian couple who liked to fish, so on the way back, they were able to reel in a rooster fish which I had never seen before. We returned to San Juan a few hours later ready to nap. Saturday night we were able to meet up again with some friends.
Sunday around 930, my ride came to take me back to Granada. When I arrived back at the school, the head of the school in Managua was already there waiting for me to arrive. I was able to reconnect with some friends in that school for a brief moment before heading to Managua. When I arrived at the homestay in Managua, the family was great and quick to embrace my presence. The mother, grandmother and five daughters live there which is great. We ate lunch together before I completely passed out and took a 4 hour nap. Totally unlike me, but clearly necessary. Around 630, they asked if I wanted to join them for the ¨Purissima¨. I figured, why not so they collected random instruments from around the house and huge shopping bags before leaving the house. I was still not sure what I was in for. We walked to their parish around the corner where there was a lineup of people waiting to sing to a statue of the Virgin Mary. Following singing, a woman handed out prizes, fruit...pretty much everything under the sun. I was definitely with the most lively of groups which was great. Picture kids on Halloween without the costumes and parents in tow singing to random statues of Virgin Mary all around the neighborhood! It was quite the experience. Even some of the households had karaoke type set ups where there was a band waiting to play for you upon entry. When we got back to the house, the girls feverishly sorted their prizes which included arroz con leche, flipflops, tanktops, soda, candy and home made candied cherries. Definitely an array of items. I am definitely happy I was able to take in this experience as I have never seen anything like it!
Saturday morning, we had arranged for a boatride with some of the guys we had met as well and left port at 10am. We cruised around for a while looking at the different beaches in the area and dropped anchor for a while to do a bit of swimming. Alan, the husband of the school owner is also a fisherman, so he dove in with his harpoon and came back up with a game fish! Pretty cool. We were also on board with a Canadian couple who liked to fish, so on the way back, they were able to reel in a rooster fish which I had never seen before. We returned to San Juan a few hours later ready to nap. Saturday night we were able to meet up again with some friends.
Sunday around 930, my ride came to take me back to Granada. When I arrived back at the school, the head of the school in Managua was already there waiting for me to arrive. I was able to reconnect with some friends in that school for a brief moment before heading to Managua. When I arrived at the homestay in Managua, the family was great and quick to embrace my presence. The mother, grandmother and five daughters live there which is great. We ate lunch together before I completely passed out and took a 4 hour nap. Totally unlike me, but clearly necessary. Around 630, they asked if I wanted to join them for the ¨Purissima¨. I figured, why not so they collected random instruments from around the house and huge shopping bags before leaving the house. I was still not sure what I was in for. We walked to their parish around the corner where there was a lineup of people waiting to sing to a statue of the Virgin Mary. Following singing, a woman handed out prizes, fruit...pretty much everything under the sun. I was definitely with the most lively of groups which was great. Picture kids on Halloween without the costumes and parents in tow singing to random statues of Virgin Mary all around the neighborhood! It was quite the experience. Even some of the households had karaoke type set ups where there was a band waiting to play for you upon entry. When we got back to the house, the girls feverishly sorted their prizes which included arroz con leche, flipflops, tanktops, soda, candy and home made candied cherries. Definitely an array of items. I am definitely happy I was able to take in this experience as I have never seen anything like it!
Thursday, December 4, 2008
Days 16-18 - San Juan del Sur
This week is flying by and the town is growing on me by the day...good thing I am planning to come back here at least 2 more times before leaving Nicaragua! My lessons are continuing to be well, and my instructor Claudia is fantastic. Wednesday afternoon, we did not have a scheduled activity, so Gretchen and I walked around in the town and hung out on the main beach for a while. It is interesting that there are really not many American tourists here. Mainly, we've seen Europeans so far but have also heard that there are lots of Australians and Israelis around these parts. Around sunset, we went to have a drink at this bar right on the beach where they have hammock-type chairs in the sand. The sunset was gorgeous, and as we were taking some photos, this woman walked up and asked if we'd like for her to take one of us...in our introduction, we learned that she was visiting SJDS on a "visa run" as she currently runs a guesthouse in the "Beverly Hills" type area of San Jose, Costa Rica. She was originally from Southern California, but had been there for several years. It's interesting who you meet and for what reason. She seemed very nice and gave us her information to check out the site and in the case that we needed a relaxed, affordable place in a great neighborhood of San Jose. We'll see...it may work out for a quick stop over on my way to Panama with Nic, but is nice to have an option in an otherwise nebulous city to navigate.
Thursday turned out to be another great day as well. My discussion in Spanish has gotten a bit better and my confidence level greater. Of course, when I don't know the Spanish word, I've been throwing in French or Italian where possible or throwing an accent onto an English word to make it work, but still it is better than fumbling through and getting stuck. During class, we walked to the market to pick up our supplies for the cooking lesson in the afternoon. We made Indio Viejo, a traditional Nicaraguense dish which is a kind of stew comprised of shredded chicken, peppers, tomatoes, onions, mint, corn meal and milk...very tasty. I'd had it with my host family in Granada, but never prepared it myself.
Following the cooking lesson, we took a walk around town and found the area where I was planning to stay after Managua which looks like a smaller version of the Gas Lamp quarter of San Diego with the antique fixtures in the street, etc. We also ran in to my friend Mascha who is still in town until late next week.
Tomorrow is my last day of lessons here and I am excited for the weekend on a boat and the beach, but have had a great experience with this school. Also, looking forward to my first surf lesson tomorrow afternoon!
Thursday turned out to be another great day as well. My discussion in Spanish has gotten a bit better and my confidence level greater. Of course, when I don't know the Spanish word, I've been throwing in French or Italian where possible or throwing an accent onto an English word to make it work, but still it is better than fumbling through and getting stuck. During class, we walked to the market to pick up our supplies for the cooking lesson in the afternoon. We made Indio Viejo, a traditional Nicaraguense dish which is a kind of stew comprised of shredded chicken, peppers, tomatoes, onions, mint, corn meal and milk...very tasty. I'd had it with my host family in Granada, but never prepared it myself.
Following the cooking lesson, we took a walk around town and found the area where I was planning to stay after Managua which looks like a smaller version of the Gas Lamp quarter of San Diego with the antique fixtures in the street, etc. We also ran in to my friend Mascha who is still in town until late next week.
Tomorrow is my last day of lessons here and I am excited for the weekend on a boat and the beach, but have had a great experience with this school. Also, looking forward to my first surf lesson tomorrow afternoon!
Tuesday, December 2, 2008
Days 14-16 - San Juan del Sur
Left Granada in the morning on Sunday and headed to the coast! It was raining which is atypical of this time of year, but the ride was shorter than I had anticipated and took only 1.5 hours. I arrived at the Spanish School (Spanish Ya!) where I would be living for the next week. It was a good situation because the classroom is right outside of my room which is next door to the family's house. Also, turned out that I would not be the only student this week. I was even more excited when I found out it was another girl from the US. She arrived about an hour after I did. Turns out Gretchen was originally from LA but has been living in Jaco (Costa Rica) for the past few years in a condo development corporation. She is a bit older than me, but we are on the same page about learning Spanish and traveling which is nice. She mentioned that she took a trip similar to what I am doing now when she was my age and that it was the best thing she ever did...to this moment, I echo her sentiments. We spent the rest of the day chatting, getting used to our new accommodations and checking out the main town. The town was a typical beach town with little shops, restaurants/bars and hostels/hotels...pretty small. You could definitely tell that they cater to backpackers here. We ran in to my Dutch friends on the street and caught up with them too before heading back to the house for dinner.
Lessons began on Monday and again, my professor was great. She got right into it and said that the best way to learn is through practice so that is what we were going to do. After lunch, I felt really sick (we think it was something we were served) and took a nap before our introduction to the area by our professors. I was able to walk around for a bit, but in the middle of the walk I began to feel very faint and came back to the house. The grandmother (who looks and acts like Grandma Ungar) was very sweet. She made me tea and gave me a hot water bottle for my stomach. I was able to sleep through the night, and feel better today.
Had lessons this morning and another two students arrived, but they are staying elsewhere. In the afternoon, we went to an isolated beach on the edge of town called Playa Remanso. It was beautiful and the sun was just strong enough that with a nice breeze the weather was perfect. We stayed for a few hours and decided that surf lessons will be on the agenda for later this week.
Lessons began on Monday and again, my professor was great. She got right into it and said that the best way to learn is through practice so that is what we were going to do. After lunch, I felt really sick (we think it was something we were served) and took a nap before our introduction to the area by our professors. I was able to walk around for a bit, but in the middle of the walk I began to feel very faint and came back to the house. The grandmother (who looks and acts like Grandma Ungar) was very sweet. She made me tea and gave me a hot water bottle for my stomach. I was able to sleep through the night, and feel better today.
Had lessons this morning and another two students arrived, but they are staying elsewhere. In the afternoon, we went to an isolated beach on the edge of town called Playa Remanso. It was beautiful and the sun was just strong enough that with a nice breeze the weather was perfect. We stayed for a few hours and decided that surf lessons will be on the agenda for later this week.
Saturday, November 29, 2008
Days 8-13 - Flor de Pochote
A week on the farm...I began my mornings at 8am with breakfast of fresh fruit and coffee prepared by the resident chef. Definitely nothing to complain about. Everything served here was either grown on the premises organically, or within the community. Following, around 9 I had Spanish lessons for a few hours with a professor from the Spanish school in Granada where I had been last week. It turned out that she was the sister of my teacher from last week. She was great and I definitely improved my oral abilities over the past week; however, I am still a long way from fluency. During our lessons, the chef would bring us a snack of pastry and juice. Around noon, we had lunch together. Each day at one, we would meet up with the grounds keeper of the farm and participate in some work for a few hours...this is where it gets interesting.
Monday, I learned how to scrub down the goose bath and corral. Also, I learned how to make organic chicken feed before distributing it. It is interesting because as the farm is organic, there are no real limitations put on the animals. The chickens, cows, sheep and horses are free to roam around as they please. Kind of funny when you are eating breakfast and all of a sudden, the cow comes to eat with you.
Tuesday, I learned how to sharpen a machete and determine if a cactus was infected by a plague. If yes, I had to chop off the infected area or slice it with the machete...I did not like this task at all and I think the grounds keeper began thinking that I was a princess. Oh well.
Wednesday, we walked around the community and spoke with different people about what they grow and their thoughts on the current economic conditions in Nicaragua. It was really interesting not only to see how they live, but also to know that I can comprehend discussions such as these at this stage in the game. Obviously, my responses and follow up questions were in broken Spanish, but these folks were appreciative of my efforts. We also visited a coffee growers cooperative which was pretty cool. It has been around for 30 years and these guys were hard core sandinista. They had murals of Che on their walls and spoke about how much they do not like the banks having ownership of their property. They were very hospitable and answered all of my questions about the production process and the history of their group, but it was an extremely different lifestyle than what I am used to.
Thursday, I learned how to sharpen an ax and to saw down trees with an electric saw. I also tried - key word - tried to chop firewood, but it was much more difficult than I´d thought.
Unfortunately, Friday I contracted a fever and had to cancel my activity, but the family and their staff were very hospitable and took great care of me.
Saturday morning I woke up feeling much better and ready to head back to Granada for the day.
The taxi picked me up at 11am and brought me back to the school. I am finally able to use the internet and charge my phone with more credits as I was pretty much in isolation over the past week. It was a great experience living on the farm, but I am very excited to be headed to the beach tomorrow morning!
Monday, I learned how to scrub down the goose bath and corral. Also, I learned how to make organic chicken feed before distributing it. It is interesting because as the farm is organic, there are no real limitations put on the animals. The chickens, cows, sheep and horses are free to roam around as they please. Kind of funny when you are eating breakfast and all of a sudden, the cow comes to eat with you.
Tuesday, I learned how to sharpen a machete and determine if a cactus was infected by a plague. If yes, I had to chop off the infected area or slice it with the machete...I did not like this task at all and I think the grounds keeper began thinking that I was a princess. Oh well.
Wednesday, we walked around the community and spoke with different people about what they grow and their thoughts on the current economic conditions in Nicaragua. It was really interesting not only to see how they live, but also to know that I can comprehend discussions such as these at this stage in the game. Obviously, my responses and follow up questions were in broken Spanish, but these folks were appreciative of my efforts. We also visited a coffee growers cooperative which was pretty cool. It has been around for 30 years and these guys were hard core sandinista. They had murals of Che on their walls and spoke about how much they do not like the banks having ownership of their property. They were very hospitable and answered all of my questions about the production process and the history of their group, but it was an extremely different lifestyle than what I am used to.
Thursday, I learned how to sharpen an ax and to saw down trees with an electric saw. I also tried - key word - tried to chop firewood, but it was much more difficult than I´d thought.
Unfortunately, Friday I contracted a fever and had to cancel my activity, but the family and their staff were very hospitable and took great care of me.
Saturday morning I woke up feeling much better and ready to head back to Granada for the day.
The taxi picked me up at 11am and brought me back to the school. I am finally able to use the internet and charge my phone with more credits as I was pretty much in isolation over the past week. It was a great experience living on the farm, but I am very excited to be headed to the beach tomorrow morning!
Day 6 & 7 - Granada, Masaya and Flor de Pochote
It was the weekend and time to make an excursion outside of Granada...I met up with some friends early in the morning and we headed to the artisan market in Masaya which is only about 20 minutes away by bus. This market in known for wooden furniture, hammocks and pottery. We took a similar bus to the one I´d taken to Catarina, but this time the experience was much more pleasant, probably because it was early in the morning on a Saturday. We perused the market, but only one of us bought a lot. I would have loved to pick up a hammock, but there was no way I was carrying it through my entire trip. After a few hours in Masaya, we headed back to Granada for lunch. The rest of the day I spent hanging out with my host family as I would be leaving in the morning for Masatepe.
On Sunday morning, I brought my things to the school where a taxi would take me to my next destination, Flor de Pochote right outside of Masatepe. The cab driver was very nice and he thought I would like the music in his car which was 1970s disco and pop remixed in English...pretty funny. After the 30 minute ride, we arrived to Flor de Pochote. The main house was quite nice with a gorgeous view of Laguna de Apoyo and a volcano in the distance. The closest city was Masaya which was also visible from the house. I was taken up a steep hill to my cabaña by one of the women who works in the house. My cabaña was much better than I had expected. It was pretty much equivalent to a bunk I lived in at camp, but all to myself. Also, the view was gorgeous and I had a hammock and rocking chairs on my porch so that I could enjoy the scenery. There were no planned activities for the afternoon, so I hung out and got adjusted to my new surroundings. I had dinner with the family who owns the farm and learned that he was from Denmark and she from Nicaragua. They have run the place for 14 years and it is a successful destination for ecotourism. Also, I learned that they did not have electricity for about a week and that it is common outside the cities to go for days without electricity. I was escorted back to my cabaña as it was pitch black and the electricity did not return by morning.
On Sunday morning, I brought my things to the school where a taxi would take me to my next destination, Flor de Pochote right outside of Masatepe. The cab driver was very nice and he thought I would like the music in his car which was 1970s disco and pop remixed in English...pretty funny. After the 30 minute ride, we arrived to Flor de Pochote. The main house was quite nice with a gorgeous view of Laguna de Apoyo and a volcano in the distance. The closest city was Masaya which was also visible from the house. I was taken up a steep hill to my cabaña by one of the women who works in the house. My cabaña was much better than I had expected. It was pretty much equivalent to a bunk I lived in at camp, but all to myself. Also, the view was gorgeous and I had a hammock and rocking chairs on my porch so that I could enjoy the scenery. There were no planned activities for the afternoon, so I hung out and got adjusted to my new surroundings. I had dinner with the family who owns the farm and learned that he was from Denmark and she from Nicaragua. They have run the place for 14 years and it is a successful destination for ecotourism. Also, I learned that they did not have electricity for about a week and that it is common outside the cities to go for days without electricity. I was escorted back to my cabaña as it was pitch black and the electricity did not return by morning.
Saturday, November 22, 2008
Day 5 - Granada
Today has been quite an interesting day. Last day of class this week meant an exam which I was not expecting. I performed well and am happy that my Spanish is coming along as it is. In the afternoon, I was headed to Catalina with my professor, Carla to see the best view of the city. We went to the bus station which was by NO MEANS what I had pictured...picture a parking lot behind a wire fence where about 50 people are hanging out and listening to latin techno. The buses are converted school buses from the 1990's that have been painted festivly.
We board the bus without paying and while we wait, there is a parade of vendors selling everything under the sun. You name it...from gum and candy to socks and earrings. They were also selling fresh fruit juices in plastic bags with straws and freshly baked donuts. So random. Anyway, the funniest was when the bus was full to capacity and we were not able to leave until the entire isle was a lineup of people as well. Not sure if this was due to our rush hour departure, but it was jammed. As we departed the terminal, the bus continued to stop every 100 feet or so to both let people off and allow more people on! This was definitely not the express.
We finally arrived at Catalina and it was definitely a sight to be seen! There was a gorgeous view of a lagoon with the city of Granada in the back and the volcano Mumbacho to the right. After a little while of walking around and taking random photos of roosters wandering the streets, we headed back to the main road to catch the bus back to Granada. Turns out, we missed the last bus and got in a cab. (Note: the cabs here are similar to the sherut in Israel where they are shared with different destinations)
The cab took us to the neighboring city of Masaya where we were able to catch a "microbus" back to Granada which was similar to the cramped quarters of the regular "chicken bus" but in a minivan. Of course, we were picked up on the side of the street and were the last ones onboard. The man who collected money stood in front of the sliding door as we squeezed on. The driver continued on pretty quickly. The only problem was that everytime the door opened, my skirt flew up! After a few stops, I was given a seat until we arrived back in Granada.
Upon arrival, I went back to my host family for dinner before going out with my new friends. I met up with them a block away from the house and we headed to Calle de Calzada where restaurants and bars spill into the street, especially at night. We had a drink at a cafe called Flor de Lise where the manager literally found a table in the basement and set it up for us on the sidewalk because there were no more seats. After a bit of time here, we headed to Cafe Nuit where there was live music and a beautiful garden. All in all, a great day/night.
We board the bus without paying and while we wait, there is a parade of vendors selling everything under the sun. You name it...from gum and candy to socks and earrings. They were also selling fresh fruit juices in plastic bags with straws and freshly baked donuts. So random. Anyway, the funniest was when the bus was full to capacity and we were not able to leave until the entire isle was a lineup of people as well. Not sure if this was due to our rush hour departure, but it was jammed. As we departed the terminal, the bus continued to stop every 100 feet or so to both let people off and allow more people on! This was definitely not the express.
We finally arrived at Catalina and it was definitely a sight to be seen! There was a gorgeous view of a lagoon with the city of Granada in the back and the volcano Mumbacho to the right. After a little while of walking around and taking random photos of roosters wandering the streets, we headed back to the main road to catch the bus back to Granada. Turns out, we missed the last bus and got in a cab. (Note: the cabs here are similar to the sherut in Israel where they are shared with different destinations)
The cab took us to the neighboring city of Masaya where we were able to catch a "microbus" back to Granada which was similar to the cramped quarters of the regular "chicken bus" but in a minivan. Of course, we were picked up on the side of the street and were the last ones onboard. The man who collected money stood in front of the sliding door as we squeezed on. The driver continued on pretty quickly. The only problem was that everytime the door opened, my skirt flew up! After a few stops, I was given a seat until we arrived back in Granada.
Upon arrival, I went back to my host family for dinner before going out with my new friends. I met up with them a block away from the house and we headed to Calle de Calzada where restaurants and bars spill into the street, especially at night. We had a drink at a cafe called Flor de Lise where the manager literally found a table in the basement and set it up for us on the sidewalk because there were no more seats. After a bit of time here, we headed to Cafe Nuit where there was live music and a beautiful garden. All in all, a great day/night.
Friday, November 21, 2008
Day 4 - Granada
Nothing much new to report today. Had another great lesson with Carla and in the afternoon returned to school for a cooking lesson. Two of the Dutch girls I´ve met joined me for the lesson and we made Los Buñuelos, a typical Nicaraguan dish. Los Buñuelos are dumplings filled with yucca and cheese both grated very finely and dipped in a mixture of honey, cinnamon and cloves. The dumplings are fried in oil and cooked on both sides like latkes. They were very delicious!
Thursday, November 20, 2008
Day 3 - Granada
It is now Wednesday and my week here is nearly half over. On my way to school this morning, I found something a bit peculiar...on the corner of my street was a random horse, just standing there! I asked if this was a common sight and I guess there is nothing wrong with a stray horse hanging out on a street corner! So, I had my usual few hours of class in the morning, and lunch at the family´s.
After lunch, I walked over to Parque Central this time determined to find the ¨Seeing Hands¨ location in back of EuroCafe. Without too much trouble, I found the receptionist and her four masseurs! It was kind of odd that this massage parlour was located in the back of a coffee shop...for those of you familiar with Second Cup in Montreal on Parc, think of the side of the shop in the back filled with blind men and massage chairs. I know, a bit awkward, but great as you read on. This situation was not creepy in the least as students with laptops were in all other corners of this room. I asked how long was the wait for a 20 minute chair massage and found that I had to wait a bit.
Instead of waiting, I ventured down Calle Calzada where there are tons of restaurants, bars and hostels. It was interesting to see also here that the front of each venue was brightly colored and with no specific or grandiose design. Upon looking inside, there were magnificent gardens and people hanging out on rocking chairs - apparently, rocking chairs are big here.
After about 20 minutes, I returned to ¨Seeing Hands¨for my 20 minute massage. It was all very professional and a nice break in the day. Afterward, I picked up a Coca Light and headed back to school for my afternoon activity. Note to all...in Granada, a 20 minute massage = 3 Coca Light = $3.50 US!
Once I returned to school, Carla and I set off to walk the length of the city. We headed through Parque Central and past where I had ventured before to Doña Elba - a cigar rolling facility. We walked in and there were four workers sitting at grade school - sized desks with plenty of tobacco leaves around them. It was interesting to see how this process worked. I even got to roll a few cigars myself!
Following Doña Elba, we continued walking away from the city´s center to La Polvora which is a former prison sitting at the outskirts. This prison has four towers which allow one to see the length of the city. It was interesting to walk around and see the structure. It is great because Carla acts as my personal Spanish professor and tourguide. She was able to answer all of my questions. Once we were done at La Polvora, I walked back toward the house and stopped at Iglesia Xalteva which has existed since the 18th century. Across the street is a park with stone lanterns unchanged from this same period. I continued walking and found myself back at the house soon after.
I was pleased that I was able to better communicate at dinner, especially because la abuela served tostones and torta de pollo which is reminiscent of potato latkes + schnitzel which was greatly appreciated.
After lunch, I walked over to Parque Central this time determined to find the ¨Seeing Hands¨ location in back of EuroCafe. Without too much trouble, I found the receptionist and her four masseurs! It was kind of odd that this massage parlour was located in the back of a coffee shop...for those of you familiar with Second Cup in Montreal on Parc, think of the side of the shop in the back filled with blind men and massage chairs. I know, a bit awkward, but great as you read on. This situation was not creepy in the least as students with laptops were in all other corners of this room. I asked how long was the wait for a 20 minute chair massage and found that I had to wait a bit.
Instead of waiting, I ventured down Calle Calzada where there are tons of restaurants, bars and hostels. It was interesting to see also here that the front of each venue was brightly colored and with no specific or grandiose design. Upon looking inside, there were magnificent gardens and people hanging out on rocking chairs - apparently, rocking chairs are big here.
After about 20 minutes, I returned to ¨Seeing Hands¨for my 20 minute massage. It was all very professional and a nice break in the day. Afterward, I picked up a Coca Light and headed back to school for my afternoon activity. Note to all...in Granada, a 20 minute massage = 3 Coca Light = $3.50 US!
Once I returned to school, Carla and I set off to walk the length of the city. We headed through Parque Central and past where I had ventured before to Doña Elba - a cigar rolling facility. We walked in and there were four workers sitting at grade school - sized desks with plenty of tobacco leaves around them. It was interesting to see how this process worked. I even got to roll a few cigars myself!
Following Doña Elba, we continued walking away from the city´s center to La Polvora which is a former prison sitting at the outskirts. This prison has four towers which allow one to see the length of the city. It was interesting to walk around and see the structure. It is great because Carla acts as my personal Spanish professor and tourguide. She was able to answer all of my questions. Once we were done at La Polvora, I walked back toward the house and stopped at Iglesia Xalteva which has existed since the 18th century. Across the street is a park with stone lanterns unchanged from this same period. I continued walking and found myself back at the house soon after.
I was pleased that I was able to better communicate at dinner, especially because la abuela served tostones and torta de pollo which is reminiscent of potato latkes + schnitzel which was greatly appreciated.
Wednesday, November 19, 2008
Day 2 - Granada
This morning, I woke feeling a bit more comfortable. The young girl, Marla, came in to wake me and head to breakfast together. I was able to hold a bit more of a conversation at the table, but still a struggle to communicate.
I headed to school around 8 for my lessons. At lunch break, I decided to wander around the city a bit. I had read about a massage parlour run by the blind which sounded interesting, but it was far too hot to be wandering around at that hour. I headed home for lunch with the family. Again, I was able to utilize the siesta time and took a nice nap after eating.
Around 3, I went back to school to meet Carla for our tour of the Museo de Granada. This was quite a place documenting the history of the city from both cultural and religious standpoints. There were lots of sculptures inspired by the bible as well as some gorgeous paintings of Granada´s surroundings. We spent about an hour here before heading back to the school.
My plan was to continue on to find the blind masseurs; however, when I arrived back to the school, some of my peers were hanging out, so I decided to stay and chat. Two of the girls are from Holland and are here for 2 months to study Spanish and volunteer in the community. One of these girls, Anna, had stayed with my current host family and shared my sentiments being pleased with their hospitality and dynamic. The other Dutch girl, Mascha, mentioned that upon finishing her time in Granada, she was headed to San Juan del Sur...this would overlap with my time there, so it was nice to meet someone with a similar itinerary. The other American girls had already been in the city for 2 months and shared some fun weekend excursions they had been on - for example, Isla de Ometepe where they climbed a volcano and met loads of travelers from Canada and Australia. This is close by to San Juan del Sur, so I hope to make this trip when I am there.
After chatting for a bit, I headed home to practice my Spanish a bit more at dinner with my host family. I was able to fit in a brief chat with Mom which was nice, until Marla came in to get me for dinner. I was pleased that I could converse a bit with the two youngest. After dinner, the abuela - grandmother - proposed that I watch TV so that my vocabulary would become greater. I took her advice and sat with Marla watching Bridezillas, of all programs.
I headed to school around 8 for my lessons. At lunch break, I decided to wander around the city a bit. I had read about a massage parlour run by the blind which sounded interesting, but it was far too hot to be wandering around at that hour. I headed home for lunch with the family. Again, I was able to utilize the siesta time and took a nice nap after eating.
Around 3, I went back to school to meet Carla for our tour of the Museo de Granada. This was quite a place documenting the history of the city from both cultural and religious standpoints. There were lots of sculptures inspired by the bible as well as some gorgeous paintings of Granada´s surroundings. We spent about an hour here before heading back to the school.
My plan was to continue on to find the blind masseurs; however, when I arrived back to the school, some of my peers were hanging out, so I decided to stay and chat. Two of the girls are from Holland and are here for 2 months to study Spanish and volunteer in the community. One of these girls, Anna, had stayed with my current host family and shared my sentiments being pleased with their hospitality and dynamic. The other Dutch girl, Mascha, mentioned that upon finishing her time in Granada, she was headed to San Juan del Sur...this would overlap with my time there, so it was nice to meet someone with a similar itinerary. The other American girls had already been in the city for 2 months and shared some fun weekend excursions they had been on - for example, Isla de Ometepe where they climbed a volcano and met loads of travelers from Canada and Australia. This is close by to San Juan del Sur, so I hope to make this trip when I am there.
After chatting for a bit, I headed home to practice my Spanish a bit more at dinner with my host family. I was able to fit in a brief chat with Mom which was nice, until Marla came in to get me for dinner. I was pleased that I could converse a bit with the two youngest. After dinner, the abuela - grandmother - proposed that I watch TV so that my vocabulary would become greater. I took her advice and sat with Marla watching Bridezillas, of all programs.
Tuesday, November 18, 2008
Day 1 - Granada
The first day in Granada has been extremely eye-opening. This city has been previously colonized by both the Spanish and British as is reflective in its architecture. Also, the backdrop is a large volcano and Lago de Nicaragua. Apparently, this lake takes 15 hours to cross by boat!
I was awoken by the mother of my host family around 7am so that I would have time to get ready before I went to school. She prepared Corn Flakes with fresh papaya and oranges for my desayuno. I was hesitant to eat the fruit, but it was still in its skin, so I figured I would take a taste and see how I fared. Around 8am, I was brought to the Spanish school and given a key by the ¨head master¨. She then introduced me to my instructor, Carla. She is very sweet and couldn´t be any older than I am.
We began with an exam to evaluate my skills which are by no means developed. Having completed what I was able, we began with some simple vocabulary and verb structure. This week will be great for me to cultivate my language skills and also to get comfortable living with a family. I had lessons until 10am at which time we have a half hour break. I was given a Nicaraguan cell phone for the month and was thrilled as mine has not been properly picking up signal. This school is great because my lessons are one-on-one so that I set the pace of each subject dependent upon my understanding level. There are a few other girls in the school this week, but they have lessons together and volunteer in a school in the afternoon. Around 1030, we recommence and continue until noon.
Each day, I have a break in medio dia - noon- until 3pm. I headed home for lunch and was greeted by the entire family who would eat intermittantly dependent upon when they would head back to work. In the house, there are 8 members including the mother and head of the household, her three daughters and one son as well as three grand children. I ate with one of her daughters and grand daughters who are completely baffled by the fact that I barely understand what they are saying and cannot properly respond. It is a crazy feeling not to be able to communicate, but Ill get there. We had chicken soup and rice, beans and boiled plantains. The fresh pà paya juice was fantastic as well. Following our meal, I took an hour siesta and completed my homework for school.
Around 3p, I headed back to school for a tour of the city. We walked down to the lake which I understood was polluted in most parts, but in the center, there is still a thriving fish trade by the Isla de Ometepe. Carla explained the history of the lake and volcano as well as the traditions of the city of Granada. We continued walking toward the central park and wandered through the mercato. It reminded me a bit of Italy where vendors were saying whatever they could to get your attention. They sold shoes, clothing and food. Apparently, in Masaya a bit closer to Managua, there is a great artisan market where it is best to make purchases. There is not much poverty in Granada as the city has become extremely desirable to ex-pats rendering it unaffordable to most lower economic families. There is also a house which has been established to aid working women. They hold courses in English, sewing, computers, etc at no cost. I am happy that we were able to tour a bit so that I could see what else the city has to offer aside from what I have noticed in my walk to and from school.
Once our walk was complete, I headed back to the house for cena. Not understandng how, I was completely wiped out after all of this activity. I ate quickly with the family before excusing myself to go to bed.
I was awoken by the mother of my host family around 7am so that I would have time to get ready before I went to school. She prepared Corn Flakes with fresh papaya and oranges for my desayuno. I was hesitant to eat the fruit, but it was still in its skin, so I figured I would take a taste and see how I fared. Around 8am, I was brought to the Spanish school and given a key by the ¨head master¨. She then introduced me to my instructor, Carla. She is very sweet and couldn´t be any older than I am.
We began with an exam to evaluate my skills which are by no means developed. Having completed what I was able, we began with some simple vocabulary and verb structure. This week will be great for me to cultivate my language skills and also to get comfortable living with a family. I had lessons until 10am at which time we have a half hour break. I was given a Nicaraguan cell phone for the month and was thrilled as mine has not been properly picking up signal. This school is great because my lessons are one-on-one so that I set the pace of each subject dependent upon my understanding level. There are a few other girls in the school this week, but they have lessons together and volunteer in a school in the afternoon. Around 1030, we recommence and continue until noon.
Each day, I have a break in medio dia - noon- until 3pm. I headed home for lunch and was greeted by the entire family who would eat intermittantly dependent upon when they would head back to work. In the house, there are 8 members including the mother and head of the household, her three daughters and one son as well as three grand children. I ate with one of her daughters and grand daughters who are completely baffled by the fact that I barely understand what they are saying and cannot properly respond. It is a crazy feeling not to be able to communicate, but Ill get there. We had chicken soup and rice, beans and boiled plantains. The fresh pà paya juice was fantastic as well. Following our meal, I took an hour siesta and completed my homework for school.
Around 3p, I headed back to school for a tour of the city. We walked down to the lake which I understood was polluted in most parts, but in the center, there is still a thriving fish trade by the Isla de Ometepe. Carla explained the history of the lake and volcano as well as the traditions of the city of Granada. We continued walking toward the central park and wandered through the mercato. It reminded me a bit of Italy where vendors were saying whatever they could to get your attention. They sold shoes, clothing and food. Apparently, in Masaya a bit closer to Managua, there is a great artisan market where it is best to make purchases. There is not much poverty in Granada as the city has become extremely desirable to ex-pats rendering it unaffordable to most lower economic families. There is also a house which has been established to aid working women. They hold courses in English, sewing, computers, etc at no cost. I am happy that we were able to tour a bit so that I could see what else the city has to offer aside from what I have noticed in my walk to and from school.
Once our walk was complete, I headed back to the house for cena. Not understandng how, I was completely wiped out after all of this activity. I ate quickly with the family before excusing myself to go to bed.
Monday, November 17, 2008
Arrival and first night in Granada
I have arrived safely to Nicaragua and without any major hiccups along the way.
Left NYC around 11a and arrived to Miami a few minutes early allowing for some quick calls before meeting up with Stacey. Shortly after exiting security, she met me for lunch and we had a great catchup as we hadn´t seen each other in about a year. Around 5, I went back through and made it to the gate just before boarding began.
My flight to Managua also landed early, and I had ample time to go through Immigration and Customs before locating my bag - which I checked reluctantly. Luckily, as soon as I picked up my bag from the carousel, I noticed a gentleman holding a sign with my name on it...he was the taxi driver who would take me to my first destination, Granada.
Communication was difficult as he did not speak English and my Spanish is horrendous at this point. My broken Italian/French did not prove helpful in the least either...oh well...at least I was able to comprehend a bit and gather that the ride would be about an hour. The only issue which ensued was that my cell phone which was supposed to receive signal was out of service - sorry Mom, if you were worried! The entire ride, I attempted to reset but no luck.
Anyhow, I arrived to Granada and it is a quaint, colonial city, at least from what I can tell in the dark. The taxi driver pulled up to the Spanish school where the ¨head master¨came out and guided us to my host family´s abode. I walked in and was happy with my accommodations. There really were no expectations, just as long as it was clean, safe and quiet. My room consists of a mosquito netted bed, an armoir and a bureau. To one side is the bathroom and living room to the other. The entire house is layed out in a row, with my room at the relative front.
I was exhausted by this point, so once I learned that the ¨head master¨would come by in the morning to pick me up for school, I went to sleep.
Left NYC around 11a and arrived to Miami a few minutes early allowing for some quick calls before meeting up with Stacey. Shortly after exiting security, she met me for lunch and we had a great catchup as we hadn´t seen each other in about a year. Around 5, I went back through and made it to the gate just before boarding began.
My flight to Managua also landed early, and I had ample time to go through Immigration and Customs before locating my bag - which I checked reluctantly. Luckily, as soon as I picked up my bag from the carousel, I noticed a gentleman holding a sign with my name on it...he was the taxi driver who would take me to my first destination, Granada.
Communication was difficult as he did not speak English and my Spanish is horrendous at this point. My broken Italian/French did not prove helpful in the least either...oh well...at least I was able to comprehend a bit and gather that the ride would be about an hour. The only issue which ensued was that my cell phone which was supposed to receive signal was out of service - sorry Mom, if you were worried! The entire ride, I attempted to reset but no luck.
Anyhow, I arrived to Granada and it is a quaint, colonial city, at least from what I can tell in the dark. The taxi driver pulled up to the Spanish school where the ¨head master¨came out and guided us to my host family´s abode. I walked in and was happy with my accommodations. There really were no expectations, just as long as it was clean, safe and quiet. My room consists of a mosquito netted bed, an armoir and a bureau. To one side is the bathroom and living room to the other. The entire house is layed out in a row, with my room at the relative front.
I was exhausted by this point, so once I learned that the ¨head master¨would come by in the morning to pick me up for school, I went to sleep.
Saturday, November 15, 2008
Sunday, November 9, 2008
A Week Today
Beginning to get everything organized and prepared as I leave NYC in just one short week! It is amazing how much I am able to squeeze into this little pack. I am thumbing through the travel guides thrilled to have these descriptions come to life so soon. Although it will be tough to leave the hustle bustle, ever changing day-to-day of New York, I cannot wait to embark on this life changing journey.
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