The beaches of the Mal Pais/Santa Teresa region are absolutely stunning. Nic and I managed to walk several kilometers along the beach each day with the only hiccup being that none of the bank machines worked for the entire length of our visit. I had to go into the bank during hours of operation with my passport and withdraw from my debit card, good thing it´s linked up to a credit card.
There was a great reggae scene and also an electronica beach party which we discovered. It was also nice to meet lots of Israelis and Argentinians in our time there. The vibe was great and we had loads of fun.
On Sunday morning, we packed up and headed for the ferry in Paquera which brought us to Puntarenas. From there, we hired a cab to San Jose as Nic was flying out the next day. We stayed at Hotel Presidente recommended by Kels. It was right in the center of downtown which was convenient for both of us because I was leaving early in the AM Monday as well headed back to Nicaragua for a little while. We took it easy in San Jose and enjoyed our last night traveling together.
Monday morning around 6, I went to the Tica Bus terminal hoping to book a ticket on the bus to Nicaragua leaving at 730a. Much to my dismay, I wasn´t able, but could go on the 1230 bus. I was not looking forward to sitting in the station for 6 hours, but it would´ve been a big pain to lug all of my things back to the hotel. Around 715, I asked again if there was any way I could get on the bus and with my luck, I got a seat! The ride to the border was shorter than I´d expected although the border process was not organized by any stretch of the imagination. I was aided by an Italian guy who used to live in NYC and moved to Costa Rica several years ago, so it was a bit less stressful.
In the mid-afternoon, I arrived back to San Juan del Sur to meet up with some friends I´d met the last time visiting. It is nice to be in a place where I am comfortable to begin the next part of my adventure solo.
Tuesday, January 27, 2009
Friday, January 23, 2009
Days 65-67 - Montezuma and Mal Pais/Santa Teresa, Costa Rica
It has been great spending a few days in Montezuma. It is quite relaxed and since our hotel has a sister property on the beach (Ylang Ylang), we were able to utilize their pool and beachfront amenities. We spent most of our days exploring the beachfront and relaxing at the pool. On Tuesday, I did a water hike to La Cascada (waterfall) in the morning. It was gorgeous although a bit tough as the hike was through rivers and up pretty steep rock formations. Nic decided ahead of time that she was not going to go, so I had no problem going there by myself.
For sunsets and at night, we enjoyed the few beachfront restaurant-bar options in town...among our favorites were CoColores which had incredible eclectic cuisine and Chico´s which attracted both a local and tourist crowd later on.
On Thursday morning, we hired a cab to take us to Mal Pais-Santa Teresa which was about 45 minute drive on a dirt road. When we arrived, we were excited to explore these towns as we´d heard very good things from other travelers we´d met along the way. We booked a room at Hotel Tropico Latino which is gorgeous and right on the beach. It is pretty simple, but exactly what we were looking for. We found a spot for lunch by the bank as we had to wait for the tellers to open to take out money as no ATM in town had money in it. The waitress at lunch gave us the lay of the land and suggestions for where to go. Following, we were able to have success at the bank as there was no ATM in Montezuma either.
We wandered down the beach several kilometers from Playa Carmen past Santa Teresa and to Playa Hermosa. The beaches here are some of the most gorgeous I´ve seen in my entire life. On the way back to the hotel, we walked along the dirt road to see what variety of restaurants and shops were along the way. The vibe is very laid back, but well maintained. There are tons of yoga studios and spas set back and many businesses are Israeli-owned which I found interesting. There´s even a kosher burger place here!
We uncovered a Chilean-owned Thai restaurant called Alma where we went for dinner. The food was incredible and we were treated like royalty as we were the only customers at the time. It was a relatively new place, and the decor and presentation were worthy of us spreading the word.
Santa Teresa in particular is the type of place where people come to visit and never leave. It is touristy enough, but still maintains the rustic feel and beauty of an undiscovered place.
For sunsets and at night, we enjoyed the few beachfront restaurant-bar options in town...among our favorites were CoColores which had incredible eclectic cuisine and Chico´s which attracted both a local and tourist crowd later on.
On Thursday morning, we hired a cab to take us to Mal Pais-Santa Teresa which was about 45 minute drive on a dirt road. When we arrived, we were excited to explore these towns as we´d heard very good things from other travelers we´d met along the way. We booked a room at Hotel Tropico Latino which is gorgeous and right on the beach. It is pretty simple, but exactly what we were looking for. We found a spot for lunch by the bank as we had to wait for the tellers to open to take out money as no ATM in town had money in it. The waitress at lunch gave us the lay of the land and suggestions for where to go. Following, we were able to have success at the bank as there was no ATM in Montezuma either.
We wandered down the beach several kilometers from Playa Carmen past Santa Teresa and to Playa Hermosa. The beaches here are some of the most gorgeous I´ve seen in my entire life. On the way back to the hotel, we walked along the dirt road to see what variety of restaurants and shops were along the way. The vibe is very laid back, but well maintained. There are tons of yoga studios and spas set back and many businesses are Israeli-owned which I found interesting. There´s even a kosher burger place here!
We uncovered a Chilean-owned Thai restaurant called Alma where we went for dinner. The food was incredible and we were treated like royalty as we were the only customers at the time. It was a relatively new place, and the decor and presentation were worthy of us spreading the word.
Santa Teresa in particular is the type of place where people come to visit and never leave. It is touristy enough, but still maintains the rustic feel and beauty of an undiscovered place.
Monday, January 19, 2009
Days 60-64 - Jaco and Montezuma, Costa Rica
It was definitely a sad story when Kels left us on Thursday morning. We had such a great time hanging out the three of us, it was just like old times except we had nothing more to do than enjoy each others' company.
She departed to San Jose early in the morning, and Nic and I hung out by the pool and had lunch before hiring a ride from Si Como No to Gretchen's condo in Jaco. We'd heard mixed reviews about Jaco (being that it is a bit sketchy, but the going out scene is good); however, we did not doubt that Gretchen would know where to take us so we'd enjoy our visit with her.
We arrived in Jaco around 3pm and caught up for a while. Nic and Gretchen instantly found common ground which was nice as well. Later on, she took us to her favorite restaurant in town which happened to be Italian. Her boyfriend met us as well which was very nice. We had a great time perusing the scene with them. Throughout our days in Jaco, Gretchen was a great hostess and showed us the main beach as well as a few other hot spots in town, including Playa Blanca just outside which was absolutely gorgeous. The only hitch was that Nic stepped on a stingray our second day and sought medical attention. The clinic in Jaco was great and all was resolved by nightfall, so we were pleased.
Also, we went to see a reggae concert of a group from the Caribbean side (Puerto Viejo, where I'll be going shortly) at the Backyard on Playa Hermosa. This area and venue were perfect for sunset as Hermosa was much less touristy than Jaco itself. It was great to be relaxed and seeing more of a local scene in Costa Rica.
We stayed with Gretchen until Monday morning at which point Nic and I got on a boat bound for Montezuma on the southern-most tip of the Nicoya peninsula. She was a bit worried as boats are not the preferable mode of transport, but it ended up being alright.
When we arrived to Montezuma, we found El Sano Banano where we had arranged a room for a few nights and put our things down. It is great, because this town is pretty small and we are in the middle of everything...we are also able to use the facilities of their sister resort, Ylang Ylang, a 15 minute walk down the beach. Montezuma is quite serene and non-touristy...there is a hippy vibe which is a great change from the very Americanized destinations we've encountered thus far in Costa Rica.
Wednesday, January 14, 2009
Days 57-59 - Manuel Antonio, Costa Rica
Definitely interesting to be back in the Manuel Antonio/Quepos area for the first time in just about four years. We found a great last minute deal on a beautiful hotel I'd known from my last trip *Si Como No* which is on the edge of a cliff overlooking the Pacific Ocean.
We have been relaxing altogether and enjoying the last few days the three of us will have for some time until Kels comes back from Nairobi next, most likely July. She did a surf lesson yesterday which was fun and then today, we embarked on a canopy tour where you zipline from platform to platform in the rainforest canopy. I'd done a few ziplines before, so I was at ease, but as for the other two with fears of heights, not so comfortable. It ended up being a great afternoon.
Tomorrow, Kels is headed back to San Jose to fly home and Nic and I are going to Jaco to see Gretchen.
We have been relaxing altogether and enjoying the last few days the three of us will have for some time until Kels comes back from Nairobi next, most likely July. She did a surf lesson yesterday which was fun and then today, we embarked on a canopy tour where you zipline from platform to platform in the rainforest canopy. I'd done a few ziplines before, so I was at ease, but as for the other two with fears of heights, not so comfortable. It ended up being a great afternoon.
Tomorrow, Kels is headed back to San Jose to fly home and Nic and I are going to Jaco to see Gretchen.
Sunday, January 11, 2009
Days 53-56 - Tamarindo, Costa Rica
The past few days have been great with the girls! It is so nice to have two of my closest friends here with me. We are still staying in the beautiful beachfront resort, El Diria. The weather is perfect although at times a bit too hot to sit out for more than a couple of hours.
During the day, we have been sitting out by the pool and relaxing. At night, we've been going out on the town wherever the scene is on any given night. We met some girls who randomly enough are from Sharon and Brookline and know common camp friends of mine. We've also met some guys from NYC, one of which competed with me on a few pieces of business over the past year. Totally random.
Tomorrow morning, we are headed down the coast southward most likely to Manuel Antonio. I haven't been there in a few years, so it'll be interesting to see how much more developed it is now.
During the day, we have been sitting out by the pool and relaxing. At night, we've been going out on the town wherever the scene is on any given night. We met some girls who randomly enough are from Sharon and Brookline and know common camp friends of mine. We've also met some guys from NYC, one of which competed with me on a few pieces of business over the past year. Totally random.
Tomorrow morning, we are headed down the coast southward most likely to Manuel Antonio. I haven't been there in a few years, so it'll be interesting to see how much more developed it is now.
Thursday, January 8, 2009
Days 49-52 - San Juan del Sur and Tamarindo, Costa Rica
It was great to be back in San Juan again, and with the girls. My friends who live there were obviously still around, but so were two of the friends I'd met traveling which was nice. We hung out and went to the beach and the pool for a few days...a good start to the next leg of the trip.
On Wednesday morning, January 7th we packed up our bags and took a cab to the border of Costa Rica at Penas Blancas...a short 45 minute ride. Upon arriving at the border, we were a bit confused about the process. Kels momentarily misplaced her passport, but luckily found it within a few minutes and we pressed onward asking for help along the way. We went through several line ups to exit Nicaragua and enter Costa Rica and were fortunate to have a local helper get us to the front of the line (for a small incentive). Hot and cranky, we finally passed through into Costa Rica and hired a cab to take us to Tamarindo which was about a 3 hour ride.
We arrived to our beautiful four star resort, Tamarindo Diria, which Kels scored a last minute deal on. We were excited to settle in and live luxuriously for a few days.
On Wednesday morning, January 7th we packed up our bags and took a cab to the border of Costa Rica at Penas Blancas...a short 45 minute ride. Upon arriving at the border, we were a bit confused about the process. Kels momentarily misplaced her passport, but luckily found it within a few minutes and we pressed onward asking for help along the way. We went through several line ups to exit Nicaragua and enter Costa Rica and were fortunate to have a local helper get us to the front of the line (for a small incentive). Hot and cranky, we finally passed through into Costa Rica and hired a cab to take us to Tamarindo which was about a 3 hour ride.
We arrived to our beautiful four star resort, Tamarindo Diria, which Kels scored a last minute deal on. We were excited to settle in and live luxuriously for a few days.
Wednesday, January 7, 2009
Days 46-48 - Granada, Managua and San Juan del Sur.
Sarita left New Year´s Day in the morning which was sad because we had had a great time altogether for the past week. Josh and I then headed to Granada where I had not been for more than a few hours since my first week in Nicaragua. We found ourselves at Hospedaje Dorado having had no luck at our first choice, The Bearded Monkey. It was a quaint place, but the room felt a bit stale. Quickly, we decided to seek out a different option for Josh´s last night.
Having decided on one of the nicer spots right on el Parque Central, we walked down Calle Calzada, a cobblestone street filled with restaurants and had lunch before scouting out the lake at the edge of town. We walked around for a bit of time and checked in with my previous school who allowed for me to keep my cell phone for the remainder of my trip.
Later on in the evening following a rest, we went back to Calzada to a cafe for dinner. We were so excited about the menu until we were told by the waiter that they only had one item on the menu...churrasco (steak with chimichurri sauce). Good thing we both liked it! Afterward, we had a drink or two at the Bearded Monkey and met some others backpacking around Central America.
The next morning, we were thrilled to be checking out as we both felt a bit sick from the stale air in our room. We left our bags at the new hotel and headed to the artisan market in Masaya. It was interesting for Josh to see and he was able to pick up some gift items. Midway through the market, I began to feel ill so we went back to Granada. The rest of the day, I slept although I felt badly because it was Josh´s last day in Nicaragua. We had dinner that night, although I was still feeling unwell. He went out and had a fantastic night which I am happy about though.
In the morning on Saturday the 3rd, I felt a bit better. A friend of mine from San Juan was in Granada to pick up some clients headed back to San Juan, so we met up briefly and it was great to see him. Josh and I then finished packing up our things, grabbed breakfast and headed to the airport. I was sad to see Josh leave, but it was bittersweet because we had a great time traveling together...also, Nicole and Kelsi were due in a few hours later and I was anxiously awaiting their arrival.
Their flight arrived pretty much on time, although customs was a slow process. We were all extremely excited and quickly got in a cab who´d agreed to take us to San Juan earlier in the day. The only trouble was that I´d negotiated with two cab drivers, one of which was a gypsy cab. We´d decided to go with the official, more secure cab and of course the gypsy cab driver was very upset. He threatened to report the other driver and wanted us to pay him for waiting. We quickly reported him to the police and drove away. We arrived to San Juan shortly after and checked into our hotel. The Royal Chateau was pretty standard, but what we needed when we got there. It was nice to be back in San Juan and with the girls.
Having decided on one of the nicer spots right on el Parque Central, we walked down Calle Calzada, a cobblestone street filled with restaurants and had lunch before scouting out the lake at the edge of town. We walked around for a bit of time and checked in with my previous school who allowed for me to keep my cell phone for the remainder of my trip.
Later on in the evening following a rest, we went back to Calzada to a cafe for dinner. We were so excited about the menu until we were told by the waiter that they only had one item on the menu...churrasco (steak with chimichurri sauce). Good thing we both liked it! Afterward, we had a drink or two at the Bearded Monkey and met some others backpacking around Central America.
The next morning, we were thrilled to be checking out as we both felt a bit sick from the stale air in our room. We left our bags at the new hotel and headed to the artisan market in Masaya. It was interesting for Josh to see and he was able to pick up some gift items. Midway through the market, I began to feel ill so we went back to Granada. The rest of the day, I slept although I felt badly because it was Josh´s last day in Nicaragua. We had dinner that night, although I was still feeling unwell. He went out and had a fantastic night which I am happy about though.
In the morning on Saturday the 3rd, I felt a bit better. A friend of mine from San Juan was in Granada to pick up some clients headed back to San Juan, so we met up briefly and it was great to see him. Josh and I then finished packing up our things, grabbed breakfast and headed to the airport. I was sad to see Josh leave, but it was bittersweet because we had a great time traveling together...also, Nicole and Kelsi were due in a few hours later and I was anxiously awaiting their arrival.
Their flight arrived pretty much on time, although customs was a slow process. We were all extremely excited and quickly got in a cab who´d agreed to take us to San Juan earlier in the day. The only trouble was that I´d negotiated with two cab drivers, one of which was a gypsy cab. We´d decided to go with the official, more secure cab and of course the gypsy cab driver was very upset. He threatened to report the other driver and wanted us to pay him for waiting. We quickly reported him to the police and drove away. We arrived to San Juan shortly after and checked into our hotel. The Royal Chateau was pretty standard, but what we needed when we got there. It was nice to be back in San Juan and with the girls.
Day 44-45 Leon
Having gotten a great night´s sleep, we were welcomed by a fantastic breakfast at Hotel Real. The three of us were looking forward to exploring the city of Leon. We wandered around and viewed the many churches and markets while taking pictures with all of the murals we passed by. In the afternoon, it became very hot and we decided that the beach was in order for the following day. The city of Leon itself was beautiful and we enjoyed being there, however one day was just enough to satisfy us. We had a great dinner back at Via Via and called it an early night.
The next day, we got up on the early end and headed to the market just outside of town to catch the bus to Las Peñitas, a beach about 45 minutes away. The bus was packed and still, there were vendors walking through the aisle attempting to sell juice, ice cream and snacks. We ended up having to stand the entire way to the shore. Once we saw the coastline, the three of us jumped off the bus and headed to the beach. It turned out that we were at Poneloya, a more private beach lined with gorgeous homes. We realized this when on the way back, we picked up a slew of folks from Las Peñitas. Sarita pointed out that on the way back, there were what looked like scare crowes on the side of many lawns. These were the años viejos...manequins dressed and surrounded by vices to be destroyed upon the break of the new year...a tradition similarly implemented when she was living in Colombia.
Once we got back to Leon, it was time for sunset which we were able to view from the roof of our hotel. Shortly after, we went out for our New Year´s extravaganza. We went to a great restaurant on the other side of el Parque Central called Toquezal which had traditional Nicaraguan dishes as well as a variety of other options. It was great because the interior was typical of Leon as were much of the clientele. We were greeted by some street boys who paraded around with an año viejo and a drum. We gave them some change and they demanded we dance with the año viejo as they drummed around us. It was pretty hysterical.
After dinner, we walked around the park where there was a carnival and fireworks as well as several random backdrops where families were taking portraits with Santa and toy cars...we decided to join in as well. We visited a few other spots that night in Leon, and when the clock struck midnight some children set off fireworks in the middle of the square. It was a great cultural experience.
The next day, we got up on the early end and headed to the market just outside of town to catch the bus to Las Peñitas, a beach about 45 minutes away. The bus was packed and still, there were vendors walking through the aisle attempting to sell juice, ice cream and snacks. We ended up having to stand the entire way to the shore. Once we saw the coastline, the three of us jumped off the bus and headed to the beach. It turned out that we were at Poneloya, a more private beach lined with gorgeous homes. We realized this when on the way back, we picked up a slew of folks from Las Peñitas. Sarita pointed out that on the way back, there were what looked like scare crowes on the side of many lawns. These were the años viejos...manequins dressed and surrounded by vices to be destroyed upon the break of the new year...a tradition similarly implemented when she was living in Colombia.
Once we got back to Leon, it was time for sunset which we were able to view from the roof of our hotel. Shortly after, we went out for our New Year´s extravaganza. We went to a great restaurant on the other side of el Parque Central called Toquezal which had traditional Nicaraguan dishes as well as a variety of other options. It was great because the interior was typical of Leon as were much of the clientele. We were greeted by some street boys who paraded around with an año viejo and a drum. We gave them some change and they demanded we dance with the año viejo as they drummed around us. It was pretty hysterical.
After dinner, we walked around the park where there was a carnival and fireworks as well as several random backdrops where families were taking portraits with Santa and toy cars...we decided to join in as well. We visited a few other spots that night in Leon, and when the clock struck midnight some children set off fireworks in the middle of the square. It was a great cultural experience.
Thursday, January 1, 2009
Days 40-43 - Playa El Tunco (El Salvador), San Marcos de Colon (Honduras), Esteli and Leon (Nicaragua)
Another beautiful day on the beach in Playa El Tunco. Josh and Sarita took a surf lesson which was much more difficult than the one we´d taken at Playa Maderas in Nicaragua. The surf was pretty rough and very aggressive. Josh came back with a cut on his toe and Sarita seasick. They both had a great time despite the minor setbacks. We stayed on the beach until the late afternoon and had lunch again until the sunset on the beach. It is great when the service is relaxed and you have no where important to be.
When we returned to the lodge, we realized that there was no running water! We were unable to go in the pool to rinse off as we were all completely covered with sand. The lodge caretaker suggested we shower with a bucket...we paused and looked at each other before cracking up. It ended up being a great time because we just had a water fight and then jumped into the pool. Who knew that showering with a bucket could be so entertaining?
At night, we arranged for our airport driver to come pick us up in the morning for our journey to Honduras before going to the finest hotel on the beach for dinner. Hotel Roca Sunzal was pretty Americanized where the other venues on the beach were completely local to Salvadoreños. Although we all appreciated the local flavor, we were intrigued by this new spot.
The next morning, Gonsalo (our driver) arrived promptly at 9 and we headed out for the border at El Amatillo, Honduras. It took approximately 3 hours for us to arrive and once there, we walked through customs and across the border into Honduras. Of course we were hungry (again), so we stopped in to a ¨comedor¨or local eatery for lunch. The waitress looked at us as if she had never seen tourists before and offered us a choice of simply beef, chicken or fish. The food was outstanding and very typical as I had learned of comedors in my Spanish lessons. Following lunch, we walked to find another cab to take us to San Marcos de Colon, a small town bordering the Nicaraguan ¨frontera¨where we planned to stay the night. Upon our walk, Sarita stopped short and screamed when she found her name to be the national brand of ice cream. She was so excited that the family who ran the shop came out and wanted to be in pictures with her. It was hysterical.
The family helped us to find a trustworthy ride to San Marcos de Colon. We hopped in the car and 3 hours later found ourselves in the quaint, quiet border town. We were able to secure a room at the Hotel Colonial which we´d read about in the guide book before going to explore our surroundings. There were loads of cowboys wandering around town. It seemed pretty quiet and friendly. We went in to Restaurante Bonanza to look at the menu for dinner and the owner was so happy to see us that she assured us a table for later on in the evening. When we returned, the waitress was preparing for a party and let us know that the only food available to us was grilled chicken, but that we would not regret it...the food was great, but it turned out, there was a nursing school graduation that entered the restaurant shortly after. People were announced upon entry to the restaurant and songs were sung. Speeches were given and awards presented. We were laughing so hard as we were elevated and everyone in town was staring at us and wondering why we were at the graduation. When we wanted to leave, we also made a scene as we had to part the people in order to make it toward the doorway. As soon as we left the restaurant again, we burst out into laughter. What a night!
Early the next morning, we packed up and headed to the market for a minibus which would take us to the border with Nicaragua at El Espino. The ride was only 7km, but they packed enough people into the minivan that it seemed to be much longer than that. Along the way, the driver would stop and ask more people if they needed a ride to the border as well, very typical. Upon reaching the border, we again walked across a bridge into Nicaragua and only had to pay a tax and show our passports before entering the country officially.
Once we´d squared away our paperwork, a bus driver approached us and asked to where we were headed. Upon hearing Esteli, we were boarded onto the international King Quality bus and headed there. An hour later we arrived to Esteli where we found ourselves at Hotel Mariflor where we dropped our things. We had a great lunch at a local bakery we´d read about and then toured the town in search of the famous cigars, coffee and cowboy attire. Turns out, we´d needed to reserve tours before hand and had difficulty finding what we were looking to do.
After a few hours of wandering around the city, we made an executive decision to leave the hotel and continue our journey on to Leon. We paid part for our hotel as we hadn´t spent the night and hailed a cab on the street who agreed to take us to Leon although he didn´t know where it was or how far he´d be going...ridiculous. The road ended up being terrible between the two cities and our supposed 3 hour drive ended up being 5 and a half! Once we finally arrived to Leon, he fought with us about the price we´d originally agreed upon (because he didn´t know where he was agreeing to go). We settled the dispute rather quickly and got into a local cab to find a place to stay. As it was close to New Years and Christmas, many of our top choice hostels were full, but we had the help of a great consierge who found us a room at the Hotel Real.
Hotel Real is a very centrally located, clean and affordable hotel which was perfect for our needs. They were able to accommodate our timeframe as well. We were so happy to have arrived to Leon that we ran out for dinner and to celebrate. We found the restaurant at hostel Via Via which would become our ¨go-to¨for the remainder of the time in Leon.
When we returned to the lodge, we realized that there was no running water! We were unable to go in the pool to rinse off as we were all completely covered with sand. The lodge caretaker suggested we shower with a bucket...we paused and looked at each other before cracking up. It ended up being a great time because we just had a water fight and then jumped into the pool. Who knew that showering with a bucket could be so entertaining?
At night, we arranged for our airport driver to come pick us up in the morning for our journey to Honduras before going to the finest hotel on the beach for dinner. Hotel Roca Sunzal was pretty Americanized where the other venues on the beach were completely local to Salvadoreños. Although we all appreciated the local flavor, we were intrigued by this new spot.
The next morning, Gonsalo (our driver) arrived promptly at 9 and we headed out for the border at El Amatillo, Honduras. It took approximately 3 hours for us to arrive and once there, we walked through customs and across the border into Honduras. Of course we were hungry (again), so we stopped in to a ¨comedor¨or local eatery for lunch. The waitress looked at us as if she had never seen tourists before and offered us a choice of simply beef, chicken or fish. The food was outstanding and very typical as I had learned of comedors in my Spanish lessons. Following lunch, we walked to find another cab to take us to San Marcos de Colon, a small town bordering the Nicaraguan ¨frontera¨where we planned to stay the night. Upon our walk, Sarita stopped short and screamed when she found her name to be the national brand of ice cream. She was so excited that the family who ran the shop came out and wanted to be in pictures with her. It was hysterical.
The family helped us to find a trustworthy ride to San Marcos de Colon. We hopped in the car and 3 hours later found ourselves in the quaint, quiet border town. We were able to secure a room at the Hotel Colonial which we´d read about in the guide book before going to explore our surroundings. There were loads of cowboys wandering around town. It seemed pretty quiet and friendly. We went in to Restaurante Bonanza to look at the menu for dinner and the owner was so happy to see us that she assured us a table for later on in the evening. When we returned, the waitress was preparing for a party and let us know that the only food available to us was grilled chicken, but that we would not regret it...the food was great, but it turned out, there was a nursing school graduation that entered the restaurant shortly after. People were announced upon entry to the restaurant and songs were sung. Speeches were given and awards presented. We were laughing so hard as we were elevated and everyone in town was staring at us and wondering why we were at the graduation. When we wanted to leave, we also made a scene as we had to part the people in order to make it toward the doorway. As soon as we left the restaurant again, we burst out into laughter. What a night!
Early the next morning, we packed up and headed to the market for a minibus which would take us to the border with Nicaragua at El Espino. The ride was only 7km, but they packed enough people into the minivan that it seemed to be much longer than that. Along the way, the driver would stop and ask more people if they needed a ride to the border as well, very typical. Upon reaching the border, we again walked across a bridge into Nicaragua and only had to pay a tax and show our passports before entering the country officially.
Once we´d squared away our paperwork, a bus driver approached us and asked to where we were headed. Upon hearing Esteli, we were boarded onto the international King Quality bus and headed there. An hour later we arrived to Esteli where we found ourselves at Hotel Mariflor where we dropped our things. We had a great lunch at a local bakery we´d read about and then toured the town in search of the famous cigars, coffee and cowboy attire. Turns out, we´d needed to reserve tours before hand and had difficulty finding what we were looking to do.
After a few hours of wandering around the city, we made an executive decision to leave the hotel and continue our journey on to Leon. We paid part for our hotel as we hadn´t spent the night and hailed a cab on the street who agreed to take us to Leon although he didn´t know where it was or how far he´d be going...ridiculous. The road ended up being terrible between the two cities and our supposed 3 hour drive ended up being 5 and a half! Once we finally arrived to Leon, he fought with us about the price we´d originally agreed upon (because he didn´t know where he was agreeing to go). We settled the dispute rather quickly and got into a local cab to find a place to stay. As it was close to New Years and Christmas, many of our top choice hostels were full, but we had the help of a great consierge who found us a room at the Hotel Real.
Hotel Real is a very centrally located, clean and affordable hotel which was perfect for our needs. They were able to accommodate our timeframe as well. We were so happy to have arrived to Leon that we ran out for dinner and to celebrate. We found the restaurant at hostel Via Via which would become our ¨go-to¨for the remainder of the time in Leon.
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